Rozman Branka, Gasperlin Mirjana, Tinois-Tessoneaud Estelle, Pirot Fabrice, Falson Francoise
Laboratoire de Recherche et Développement de Pharmacie Galénique Industrielle, Université Lyon I, Lyon, France.
Eur J Pharm Biopharm. 2009 May;72(1):69-75. doi: 10.1016/j.ejpb.2008.10.004. Epub 2008 Oct 17.
Antioxidants provide the mainstay for skin protection against free radical damage. The structure of microemulsions (ME), colloidal thermodynamically stable dispersions of water, oil and surfactant, allows the incorporation of both lipophilic (vitamin E) and hydrophilic (vitamin C) antioxidants in the same system. The objective of this work was to investigate the potential of non-thickened (o/w, w/o and gel-like) and thickened (with colloidal silica) ME as carriers for the two vitamins using reconstructed human epidermis (RHE). The amounts of these vitamins accumulated in and permeated across the RHE were determined, together with factors affecting skin deposition and permeation. Notable differences were observed between formulations. The absorption of vitamins C and E in RHE layers was in general enhanced by ME compared to solutions. The incorporation of vitamins in the outer phase of ME resulted in greater absorption than that when vitamins were in the inner phase. The location of the antioxidants in the ME and affinity for the vehicle appear to be crucial in the case of non-thickened ME. Addition of thickener enhanced the deposition of vitamins E and C in the RHE. By varying the composition of ME, RHE absorption of the two vitamins can be significantly modulated.
抗氧化剂是皮肤抵御自由基损伤的主要物质。微乳剂（ME）是水、油和表面活性剂的胶体热力学稳定分散体系，能在同一体系中同时加入亲脂性抗氧化剂（维生素E）和亲水性抗氧化剂（维生素C）。本研究旨在利用重建人表皮（RHE）研究未增稠（油包水、水包油和凝胶状）和增稠（添加胶体二氧化硅）的微乳剂作为这两种维生素载体的潜力。测定了这些维生素在RHE中的累积量和透过量，以及影响皮肤沉积和渗透的因素。不同配方之间观察到显著差异。与溶液相比，微乳剂一般能增强RHE层对维生素C和E的吸收。维生素加入到微乳剂的外相比加入到内相时吸收量更大。对于未增稠的微乳剂，抗氧化剂在微乳剂中的位置以及对载体的亲和力似乎至关重要。添加增稠剂可增强维生素E和C在RHE中的沉积。通过改变微乳剂的组成，可以显著调节RHE对这两种维生素的吸收。
