Department of Organic Chemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Bologna, Bologna, Italy.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012 Aug;34(4):347-56. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00725.x. Epub 2012 May 17.
Topical bioavailability of lipid- and water-soluble vitamins is a critical issue for protecting or anti-ageing formulations. Using 17-day-old SkinEthic(®) reconstructed human epidermis, we investigated (at 34°C) the role of lemon EO in enhancing the penetration of α-tocopherol (E) and retinyl acetate (A), pyridoxine (B(6)) and ascorbic acid (C), released from O/W or W/O emulsions. D-limonene, α-pinene and p-cymene (65.9, 2.2 and 0.5%w/w of the oil) had skin permeability coefficients Ps (10(-3) cm h(-1)) of 0.56 ± 0.03 (or 0.73 ± 0.02), 0.72 ± 0.05 (or 0.98 ± 0.05) and 0.84 ± 0.04 (or 1.14 ± 0.04), respectively, when incorporated in a W/O (or O/W) emulsion. Vitamins B6, C and A had Ps values of (3.0 ± 0.4) × 10(-3), (7.9 ± 0.6) × 10(-3) and (0.37 ± 0.02) × 10(-5) cm h(-1), respectively, and their flux through the skin was enhanced by a factor of 4.1, 3.4 and 5.8, respectively, in the presence of lemon EO. The penetration of vitamin E was nine-fold enhanced. Lemon EO produced only reversible modification of TEWL, and it is a safe and effective penetration enhancer for topical administration of lipid- and water-soluble vitamins.
脂溶性和水溶性维生素的局部生物利用度是保护或抗衰老配方的一个关键问题。我们使用 17 天大的 SkinEthic®（®）重建人表皮，研究了柠檬精油在增强 α-生育酚（E）和视黄醇醋酸酯（A）、吡哆醇（B（6））和抗坏血酸（C）从 O/W 或 W/O 乳液中的释放和渗透方面的作用。D-柠檬烯、α-蒎烯和对伞花烃（油中 65.9、2.2 和 0.5%w/w）的皮肤渗透率 Ps（10(-3)cm h(-1)）分别为 0.56 ± 0.03（或 0.73 ± 0.02）、0.72 ± 0.05（或 0.98 ± 0.05）和 0.84 ± 0.04（或 1.14 ± 0.04），当它们被包裹在 W/O（或 O/W）乳液中时。维生素 B6、C 和 A 的 Ps 值分别为（3.0 ± 0.4）×10(-3)、（7.9 ± 0.6）×10(-3)和（0.37 ± 0.02）×10(-5)cm h(-1)，分别在柠檬精油存在下增加了 4.1、3.4 和 5.8 倍。维生素 E 的渗透增加了九倍。柠檬精油仅对 TEWL 产生可逆修饰，是一种安全有效的脂溶性和水溶性维生素局部给药渗透增强剂。
