Department of Sport and Exercise Sciences, University of Chester, Chester, UK.
Scand J Med Sci Sports. 2010 Apr;20(2):356-63. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0838.2009.00904.x. Epub 2009 Mar 25.
The purpose of the present study was to assess the relationship between pre-performance psychological states and expert performance in non-traditional sport competition. Nineteen elite male sport climbers (M=24.6, SD=4.0 years of age) completed the Competitive State Anxiety Inventory-2 and the Positive and Negative Affect Schedule before an international rock climbing competition. Climbing performances were video-recorded to calculate movement fluency (entropy) and obtain ascent times. Official route scores were also obtained. Successful climbers reported higher pre-performance levels of somatic anxiety and climbed the most difficult part of the route more slowly than their unsuccessful counterparts. The psychological states preceding elite climbing competition appeared to be an important factor in determining success, even when differences in baseline ability were taken into account.
本研究旨在评估非传统运动竞赛中赛前心理状态与专家表现之间的关系。19 名精英男性运动攀岩者（M=24.6，SD=4.0 岁）在国际攀岩比赛前完成了竞赛状态焦虑量表-2 和正性负性情绪量表的测试。攀爬表现通过视频记录来计算运动流畅度（熵）和获得上升时间。还获得了官方路线得分。成功的攀岩者报告说，在赛前的躯体焦虑水平较高，并且比不成功的攀岩者更缓慢地攀登路线的最困难部分。在精英攀岩比赛前的心理状态似乎是决定成功的一个重要因素，即使考虑到基线能力的差异也是如此。
