Watts P B, Martin D T, Durtschi S
Exercise Science Laboratory, Northern Michigan University, Marquette 49855.
J Sports Sci. 1993 Apr;11(2):113-7. doi: 10.1080/02640419308729974.
Over the past few years, competitive rock climbing--for a long time a popular sport in Europe--has increased in popularity in North America. An annual international World Cup competition circuit was started in 1988 which has shown growing success and a definite elite group of athletes has emerged. Descriptive anthropometric profiles of elite climbers have been unavailable. In order to fill this information void, 39 world-class climbers (21 males, 18 females) were assessed immediately prior to competition at an international World Cup sport climbing championship. All of the subjects tested were competition semi-finalists and, among these, seven males and six females advanced to the finals. The variables measured included age, years of climbing experience, height, body mass, height-weight ratio, sum of seven skinfolds, % body fat, fat-free mass, hand and arm volumes via plethysmography, average of right and left grip strengths, grip strength to body mass ratio (SMR), and climbing ability defined as the most difficult route climbed on lead. The results indicated that elite sport climbers are of small to moderate stature and exhibit very low % fat, moderate grip strength and high SMR when compared with other athletic groups. Values for the height-weight ratio and sum of seven skinfolds in the female finalists were very near those of the male finalists, which may indicate that reduction of body mass and % fat are primary adaptations in these female athletes. Climbing ability was predictable from SMR and % fat, though the R2 was low.
在过去几年中，竞技攀岩——长期以来在欧洲一直是一项受欢迎的运动——在北美越来越受欢迎。1988年开始了一年一度的国际世界杯比赛巡回赛，该赛事取得了越来越大的成功，并且已经出现了一批明确的精英运动员群体。目前还没有关于精英攀岩者的描述性人体测量学资料。为了填补这一信息空白，在一项国际世界杯攀岩锦标赛的比赛前，对39名世界级攀岩者（21名男性，18名女性）进行了评估。所有接受测试的受试者都是比赛半决赛选手，其中7名男性和6名女性进入了决赛。测量的变量包括年龄、攀岩经验年限、身高、体重、身高体重比、七处皮褶厚度之和、体脂百分比、去脂体重、通过体积描记法测量的手和手臂体积、左右握力的平均值、握力与体重比（SMR）以及定义为先锋攀登中最难路线的攀岩能力。结果表明，与其他运动员群体相比，精英攀岩者身材矮小至中等，体脂百分比极低，握力适中，SMR较高。女性决赛选手的身高体重比和七处皮褶厚度之和的值与男性决赛选手非常接近，这可能表明减轻体重和体脂百分比是这些女性运动员的主要适应性变化。尽管决定系数（R2）较低，但攀岩能力可以通过SMR和体脂百分比来预测。
