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共振拉曼光谱作为一种有效工具,用于确定化妆品配方的抗氧化稳定性。

Resonance Raman spectroscopy as an effective tool for the determination of antioxidative stability of cosmetic formulations.

机构信息

Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology, Department of Dermatology and Allergology, Charité-Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Germany.

出版信息

J Biophotonics. 2010 Jan;3(1-2):82-8. doi: 10.1002/jbio.200910060.

Abstract

Carotenoids beta-carotene, lutein, lycopene and others are well-known powerful antioxidants acting as an effective neutralizer of free radicals produced in the human organism as a result of the influence of stress factors, such as UV irradiation. The protective effect of antioxidants is used in cosmetic products to increase the skin protection against the destructive action of free radicals and for the stabilization of formulations against oxidation. In the skin, the different antioxidant substances form protection chains to avoid their destruction by the interaction with the free radicals. Similar effects have to be expected also in topically applied formulations. In the present study the influence of different mixtures of antioxidants (beta-carotene, vitamins C and E) on the stability of antioxidants in formulations used for skin treatment was investigated. The measurements were carried out by using non-invasive resonance Raman spectroscopy for the detection of the carotenoid concentration in the cosmetic formulations.

摘要

类胡萝卜素(β-胡萝卜素、叶黄素、番茄红素等)是众所周知的强效抗氧化剂,能够有效中和人类机体因应激因素(如紫外线照射)产生的自由基。抗氧化剂的保护作用被应用于化妆品产品中,以增加皮肤对自由基破坏性作用的防护,并稳定制剂防止氧化。在皮肤中,不同的抗氧化物质形成保护链,以避免它们因与自由基相互作用而被破坏。类似的效果也有望在局部应用的制剂中出现。在本研究中,研究了不同抗氧化剂混合物(β-胡萝卜素、维生素 C 和 E)对用于皮肤治疗的制剂中抗氧化剂稳定性的影响。通过使用非侵入性共振拉曼光谱法检测化妆品制剂中的类胡萝卜素浓度来进行测量。

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