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利用生物工程技术评估草本保湿剂的粘弹性和保湿效果。

Assessment of viscoelasticity and hydration effect of herbal moisturizers using bioengineering techniques.

作者信息

Kapoor Shweta, Saraf Swarnlata

机构信息

Institute of Pharmacy, Pt. Ravishankar Shukla University, Raipur (C.G), 492010, India.

出版信息

Pharmacogn Mag. 2010 Oct;6(24):298-304. doi: 10.4103/0973-1296.71797.

Abstract

BACKGROUND

A number of moisturizers are available containing natural hydrating, moisturizing, fi rming and occlusive property-imparting agent in the form of herbal extracts, juice and oils. The aim of this study is to assess the hydration and viscoelastic effect of commercially available herbal moisturizers, containing different herbs, on human skin, after a single and 3-week period of application using skin bio mechanical and electrical techniques.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Twenty selected herbal moisturizers (HM) were coded as HM1-HM20. Forty volunteers, mean age of 40 ± 9 years, were participated in the short- and long-term study. Skin properties in terms of hydration and viscoelastic parameters were measured by multitester and cutometer, respectively. Measurements were done before and after 1, 2, and 3 h (single application) and for the 3-week period of daily application.

RESULTS

After single application, significant increase has been observed in both the skin electrical (P < 0.001) and mechanical properties (P < 0.01) as compared to the control, at which no products were applied. After the 3-week period, both effects are maintained and found to be significant at P < 0.001. Short-and long-term study revealed that out of 20 herbal moisturizers, HM8 and HM10 show pronounced increase in skin hydration (90-100%) and HM8, HM10, and HM11 shown marked increase in skin viscoelasticity (90-95%).

CONCLUSION

The possible reason of maximum effects obtained by these products is multifunctional effects of active ingredients of incorporated herbs. Combined used of both non invasive techniques is useful to substantiate the hydrating and viscoelasticity claim of herbal moisturizer. Short- and long-terms study revealed the best performing herbal moisturizer.

摘要

背景

有多种保湿剂,其含有以草药提取物、汁液和油类形式存在的具有天然保湿、补水、紧致和封闭性能的成分。本研究的目的是使用皮肤生物力学和电学技术,在单次及3周的应用期后,评估含有不同草药的市售草药保湿剂对人体皮肤的水合作用和粘弹性效果。

材料与方法

将20种选定的草药保湿剂(HM)编码为HM1 - HM20。40名平均年龄为40±9岁的志愿者参与了短期和长期研究。分别通过多测试仪和皮肤弹性测定仪测量皮肤在水合作用和粘弹性参数方面的特性。在单次应用后1、2和3小时(单次应用)以及每日应用3周的时间段前后进行测量。

结果

与未涂抹任何产品的对照组相比,单次应用后,皮肤电学性能(P < 0.001)和力学性能(P < 0.01)均有显著提高。3周后,两种效果均得以维持,且在P < 0.001时具有显著性。短期和长期研究表明,在20种草药保湿剂中,HM8和HM10使皮肤水合作用显著增加(达90 - 100%),而HM8、HM10和HM11使皮肤粘弹性显著增加(达90 - 95%)。

结论

这些产品获得最大效果的可能原因是所含草药活性成分的多功能作用。结合使用这两种非侵入性技术有助于证实草药保湿剂的保湿和粘弹性宣称。短期和长期研究揭示了性能最佳的草药保湿剂。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/2d9b/2992143/1c64d6eafb90/PM-6-298-g001.jpg

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