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评估化妆品抗氧化能力的方法。

Methods for evaluation of cosmetic antioxidant capacity.

机构信息

Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Department of Cosmetics Chemistry, Warsaw, Poland.

出版信息

Skin Res Technol. 2012 Nov;18(4):421-30. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0846.2011.00588.x. Epub 2011 Nov 14.

Abstract

The skin as the largest part of human body is one of the main targets for ultraviolet radiation, environmental pollution, toxic chemicals and some metal ions, which share responsibility for the formation of free radicals. The resulting free radicals, both oxygen and nitrogen species are one of the main causes of aging due to impaired regulation of cell respiratory metabolism involving incomplete oxygen reduction in mitochondria and production a superoxide anion, hydroxyl radicals et al. In modern cosmetology to minimize the adverse effects of free radicals, antioxidants, which inhibit free radical reactions, mainly autoxidation processes are used. Currently, not only many cosmetic products containing antioxidants are available, but a large diversity of methods for determination of cosmetics antioxidant activity is also accessible. These methods can be divided into three main groups: in vitro, in vivo, and ex vivo as reported herein. Due to lack of standardization and validation it is necessary to use a variety of methods as well as conditions for those purposes, which are presented to the context.

摘要

皮肤作为人体最大的器官之一,是紫外线辐射、环境污染、有毒化学物质和某些金属离子的主要靶标之一,这些物质共同导致自由基的形成。由此产生的自由基,包括氧自由基和氮自由基,是由于线粒体细胞呼吸代谢调节受损而导致的衰老的主要原因之一,涉及不完全的氧还原和产生超氧阴离子、羟自由基等。在现代美容学中,为了最小化自由基的不良影响,使用了抗氧化剂,它们抑制自由基反应,主要是抑制自动氧化过程。目前,不仅有许多含有抗氧化剂的化妆品,而且还有大量用于测定化妆品抗氧化活性的方法。这些方法可以分为三大类:体外、体内和体外,如本文所述。由于缺乏标准化和验证,有必要使用各种方法以及针对这些目的的条件,这些都在上下文中呈现。

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