Knott Anja, Koop Urte, Mielke Heiko, Reuschlein Katja, Peters Nils, Muhr Gesa-Meike, Lenz Holger, Wensorra Ursula, Jaspers Sören, Kolbe Ludger, Raschke Thomas, Stäb Franz, Wenck Horst, Gallinat Stefan
Research & Development, Beiersdorf AG, Hamburg, Germany.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2008 Mar;7(1):15-22. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2008.00356.x.
DNA damage as a result of ultraviolet (UV) exposure plays an important role in the progression of cutaneous aging. Both folic acid and creatine have been linked to the process of DNA protection and repair.
This study aims to investigate the effects of a commercially available folic acid- and creatine-containing formulation to fight the clinical signs of premature skin aging.
PATIENTS/METHODS: Both in vitro and in vivo home-in-use studies using a folic acid- and creatine-containing formulation were performed aiming to elucidate the efficacy in terms of improvement of skin regeneration, protection from UV-induced DNA damage (Comet assay), reduction of wrinkle volume, and skin visco-elasticity. Furthermore, clinical evaluation and photography were carried out to determine the improvement of clinically graded parameters after treatment.
Cultured full-thickness epidermal skin models supplemented with folic acid and creatine after epithelial perturbation showed an accelerated skin regeneration compared to untreated control models. Similarly, application of a folic acid- and creatine-containing formulation significantly improved epidermal turnover in vivo as evidenced by smaller corneocytes derived from the treated sites relative to the vehicle-treated sides. In addition, topical in vivo application of this formulation significantly protected from UV-induced DNA lesions, increased skin firmness, and reduced wrinkle volume compared to untreated control areas. Expert grading confirmed a significant decrease of fine and coarse wrinkles in the periocular region as well as overall wrinkles, tactile roughness, and laxity.
Taken together, these results show that the combination of folic acid and creatine significantly accelerates epidermal skin regeneration in vitro and in vivo. Together with the finding of improved biomechanical skin properties, we conclude that the described topical formulation provides an effective treatment option for (photo)-aged skin.
紫外线（UV）照射导致的DNA损伤在皮肤老化进程中起重要作用。叶酸和肌酸均与DNA保护和修复过程相关。
本研究旨在调查一种市售的含叶酸和肌酸制剂对抗皮肤过早老化临床症状的效果。
患者/方法：进行了体外和体内家用研究，使用含叶酸和肌酸的制剂，旨在阐明其在改善皮肤再生、保护免受紫外线诱导的DNA损伤（彗星试验）、减少皱纹体积和皮肤粘弹性方面的功效。此外，还进行了临床评估和摄影，以确定治疗后临床分级参数的改善情况。
上皮扰动后补充叶酸和肌酸的培养全层表皮皮肤模型与未处理的对照模型相比，显示出加速的皮肤再生。同样，含叶酸和肌酸制剂的应用在体内显著改善了表皮更替，这可通过相对于载体处理侧，处理部位衍生的角质形成细胞较小来证明。此外，与未处理的对照区域相比，该制剂的局部体内应用显著保护免受紫外线诱导的DNA损伤，增加皮肤紧致度，并减少皱纹体积。专家分级证实眼周区域的细纹和粗纹以及总体皱纹、触觉粗糙度和松弛度显著减少。
综上所述，这些结果表明叶酸和肌酸的组合在体外和体内均能显著加速表皮皮肤再生。结合改善皮肤生物力学特性的发现，我们得出结论，所述局部制剂为（光）老化皮肤提供了一种有效的治疗选择。
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