Evonik Industries AG, Essen, Germany.
Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(2):71-81. doi: 10.1159/000351387. Epub 2013 Sep 5.
Pentacyclic triterpenoids improve epidermal barrier function and induce collagen production. Here, their effects on cutaneous aging by means of objective instrumental measurements were elucidated.
Reconstituted human epidermis, cultivated keratinocytes and fibroblasts were incubated with Terminalia arjuna triterpenes (T. arjuna bark extract), and mRNA and protein expression of various genes was determined using microarray analysis, qRT-PCR and ELISA techniques. Clinical efficacy of T. arjuna bark extract versus vehicle control cream was elucidated in 30 patients and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration and elasticity were measured. Another 30 female patients in their postmenopausal phase were treated with a similar regime, and skin sebum content, cutaneous blood microcirculation and skin density/echogenicity were assessed.
Incubation with T. arjuna triterpenes increased FGF-2, TSP-1, TGF-β and CTGF expression, and VEGF secretion in vitro. Elevated lactate dehydrogenase release upon sodium dodecyl sulphate challenge was reversed by the application of T. arjuna bark extract. T. arjuna bark extract decreased TEWL, improved skin moisturization, reduced scaliness and led to significantly improved skin elasticity. Also, increases in blood microflow and skin sebum content as well as improved skin thickness/echogenicity were noted on postmenopausal skin, resulting in visible reduction of sagging skin on the jowls as demonstrated by digital photography.
T. arjuna bark extract appears as an innovative active ingredient that exerts versatile antiaging properties in vitro and in vivo.
五环三萜可改善表皮屏障功能并促进胶原蛋白生成。本研究通过客观仪器测量，阐明了其对皮肤老化的影响。
将 Terminalia arjuna 三萜（T. arjuna 树皮提取物）孵育于重建的人表皮、培养的角质形成细胞和成纤维细胞，使用微阵列分析、qRT-PCR 和 ELISA 技术测定各种基因的 mRNA 和蛋白表达。在 30 名患者中阐明 T. arjuna 树皮提取物与载体对照乳膏的临床疗效，测量经皮水分丢失（TEWL）、皮肤水分和弹性。另外 30 名处于绝经后阶段的女性患者接受类似治疗方案，评估皮肤皮脂含量、皮肤微血管循环和皮肤密度/回声。
T. arjuna 三萜孵育可增加体外 FGF-2、TSP-1、TGF-β 和 CTGF 的表达和 VEGF 的分泌。T. arjuna 树皮提取物可逆转十二烷基硫酸钠引发的乳酸脱氢酶释放。T. arjuna 树皮提取物可降低 TEWL、改善皮肤保湿、减少鳞屑，显著改善皮肤弹性。此外，绝经后皮肤的血液微流和皮脂含量增加以及皮肤厚度/回声改善，导致明显的皮肤下垂减少，数字摄影显示双下巴皮肤松弛明显减少。
T. arjuna 树皮提取物作为一种创新的活性成分，在体外和体内均具有多种抗衰老特性。
