Heinrich K, Heinrich U, Tronnier H
Institute for Experimental Dermatology, DermaTronnier, University of Witten/Herdecke, Witten, Germany.
Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(3):141-7. doi: 10.1159/000354919. Epub 2014 Jan 11.
The human skin barrier is an important part of the skin's intactness and its functionality is a precondition for healthy skin. Ingredients in cosmetic formulations, especially penetration enhancers, can influence this barrier function as they transport active agents into deeper skin layers. In this study different cosmetic formulations were tested by 60 healthy female volunteers over a period of 4 weeks. The skin hydration and barrier function before and during the application were measured. Significant changes in both parameters were determined. A negative influence on the barrier function by penetration enhancers could be observed, but it was also found that lamellar lipid structures (DermaMembranSysteme®, DMS®) are able to enhance the skin barrier. Both penetration enhancers as well as DMS can increase skin hydration.
人体皮肤屏障是皮肤完整性的重要组成部分，其功能是健康皮肤的前提条件。化妆品配方中的成分，尤其是渗透促进剂，在将活性剂输送到皮肤深层时会影响这一屏障功能。在本研究中，60名健康女性志愿者在4周时间内对不同的化妆品配方进行了测试。测量了应用前和应用过程中的皮肤水合作用和屏障功能。确定了两个参数的显著变化。可以观察到渗透促进剂对屏障功能有负面影响，但也发现层状脂质结构（DermaMembranSysteme®，DMS®）能够增强皮肤屏障。渗透促进剂和DMS都可以增加皮肤水合作用。
