Niculae Gabriela, Lacatusu Ioana, Badea Nicoleta, Stan Raluca, Vasile Bogdan Stefan, Meghea Aurelia
University POLITEHNICA of Bucharest, Faculty of Applied Chemistry and Materials Science, Polizu Street No 1, 011061, Bucharest, Romania.
Photochem Photobiol Sci. 2014 Apr;13(4):703-16. doi: 10.1039/c3pp50290b.
The aim of this research was to develop advanced lipid nanocarriers based on renewable vegetable resources (rice bran oil and raspberry seed oil) that possess self-antioxidative properties, having advantages in terms of minimal side effects and exhibiting the ability to simultaneously co-encapsulate and co-release two active compounds. The focus has been oriented towards developing safe cosmetic formulations with broad-spectrum photoprotection based on these new lipid nanocarriers that contain large amounts of vegetable oils and low concentrations of synthetic UVA and UVB filters (butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane - BMDBM and octocrylene - OCT). The lipid nanocarriers have a spherical shape and show good physical stability, with a zeta potential in the range of -25.5 to -32.4 mV. Both vegetable oils play a key role in the preparation of efficient nanocarriers, leading to a less ordered arrangement of the lipid core that offers many spaces for the entrapment of large amounts of BMDBM (79%) and OCT (90%), as wells as improved antioxidant activity and UV absorption properties, particularly for the lipid nanocarriers prepared from rice bran oil. By formulating the lipid nanocarriers into creams containing only 3.5% of the UV filters and 10.5% of the vegetable oils, the resulting sunscreens exhibited improved photoprotection, reflecting up to 91% and 93% of UVA and UVB rays, respectively. A new direction of research achieved by this study is the multiple release strategy of both UV filters from the same lipid nanocarrier. After 24 hours, a slow release of BMDBM (less than 4%) and OCT (17.5%) was obtained through a Fick diffusion process. This study demonstrates a significant advance in the areas of both nanotechnology and cosmetics, developing safer cosmetic formulations that possess broad antioxidant, photoprotective and co-release effectiveness due to the existence of a high content of nanostructured vegetable oils combined with a low amount of synthetic UV filters in the same carrier system.
本研究的目的是基于可再生植物资源(米糠油和树莓籽油)开发具有自抗氧化性能的先进脂质纳米载体,其具有副作用最小的优势,并具备同时共包封和共释放两种活性化合物的能力。研究重点是基于这些新型脂质纳米载体开发具有广谱光保护作用的安全化妆品配方,这些纳米载体含有大量植物油和低浓度的合成UVA和UVB滤光剂(丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷 - BMDBM和二乙氨羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯 - OCT)。脂质纳米载体呈球形,具有良好的物理稳定性,zeta电位在-25.5至-32.4 mV范围内。两种植物油在制备高效纳米载体中都起着关键作用,导致脂质核心的排列无序程度降低,为大量BMDBM(79%)和OCT(90%)的包封提供了许多空间,同时还提高了抗氧化活性和紫外线吸收性能,特别是对于由米糠油制备的脂质纳米载体。通过将脂质纳米载体配制成仅含有3.5%紫外线滤光剂和10.5%植物油的乳膏,所得防晒霜表现出更好的光保护作用,分别反射高达91%和93%的UVA和UVB射线。本研究实现的一个新的研究方向是同一脂质纳米载体中两种紫外线滤光剂的多重释放策略。24小时后,通过菲克扩散过程实现了BMDBM(小于4%)和OCT(17.5%)的缓慢释放。这项研究表明,在纳米技术和化妆品领域都取得了重大进展,开发出了更安全的化妆品配方,由于在同一载体系统中存在高含量的纳米结构化植物油和少量合成紫外线滤光剂,这些配方具有广泛的抗氧化、光保护和共释放效果。