Lacatusu Ioana, Balanuca Brindusa, Serafim Andrada, Ott Cristina, Prodana Mariana, Badea Nicoleta
Department of Organic Chemistry, Faculty of Chemical Engineering and Biotechnologies, University POLITEHNICA of Bucharest, Polizu No 1, 011061 Bucharest, Romania.
Advanced Polymer Materials Group, Faculty of Chemical Engineering and Biotechnologies, University POLITEHNICA of Bucharest, Polizu No 1, 011061 Bucharest, Romania.
Nanomaterials (Basel). 2022 Jul 10;12(14):2362. doi: 10.3390/nano12142362.
Conventional and herbal active principles can be combined in a beneficial harmony using their best features and compensating for the certain weaknesses of each. The study will answer the question, "how can willow bark extract () or ivy leaf extract () influence the photoprotective, skin permeation and hydration properties of Bioactive Lipid Nanocarriers (BLN) loaded with UV-filters and selected herbals?". BLN--UV-filters were characterized for particle size, zeta potential, thermal behavior, entrapment efficiency and drug loading. The formulated BLN-hydrogels (HG) were subjected to release and permeation experiments. The determination of sun protection factors, as well as comparative photostability tests, rheology behavior and hydration status have been also considered for hydrogels containing BLN-/-UV-filters. Photoprotection of BLN-HG against UVA rays was more pronounced as compared with the UVB (UVA-PF reached values of 30, while the maximum SPF value was 13). The irradiation study demonstrated the photostability of BLN-HG under UV exposure. A noteworthy cosmetic efficacy was detected by skin test (hydration effect reached 97% for the BLN--UV-filters prepared with pomegranate oil). The research novelty, represented by the first-time co-optation of the active herbal extracts ( and ) together with two synthetic filters in the same nanostructured delivery system, will provide appropriate scientific support for the cosmetic industry to design novel marketed formulations with improved quality and health benefices.
传统活性成分和草本活性成分可以通过发挥各自最佳特性并弥补彼此的某些弱点,以一种有益的方式相互结合。本研究将回答“柳树皮提取物()或常春藤叶提取物()如何影响负载紫外线过滤剂和特定草本植物的生物活性脂质纳米载体(BLN)的光保护、皮肤渗透和水合性能?”这一问题。对BLN-紫外线过滤剂的粒径、zeta电位、热行为、包封率和载药量进行了表征。对制备的BLN水凝胶(HG)进行了释放和渗透实验。对于含有BLN-/-紫外线过滤剂的水凝胶,还考虑了防晒系数的测定以及比较光稳定性测试、流变学行为和水合状态。与UVB相比,BLN-HG对UVA射线的光保护作用更为显著(UVA-PF达到30,而最大SPF值为13)。辐照研究证明了BLN-HG在紫外线照射下的光稳定性。通过皮肤测试检测到了显著的美容功效(用石榴油制备的BLN-紫外线过滤剂的水合效果达到97%)。本研究的新颖之处在于首次将活性草本提取物(和)与两种合成过滤剂共同应用于同一纳米结构递送系统,这将为化妆品行业设计质量更高、有益健康的新型上市配方提供适当的科学支持。