Fryer Simon, Stoner Lee, Scarrott Carl, Lucero Adam, Witter Trevor, Love Richard, Dickson Tabitha, Draper Nick
a School of Sport and Exercise , University of Gloucester , Gloucester , UK.
J Sports Sci. 2015;33(5):518-26. doi: 10.1080/02640414.2014.949828. Epub 2014 Oct 14.
Currently, the physiological mechanisms that allow elite level climbers to maintain intense isometric contractions for prolonged periods of time are unknown. Furthermore, it is unclear whether blood flow or muscle oxidative capacity best governs performance. This study aimed to determine the haemodynamic kinetics of 2 forearm flexor muscles in 3 ability groups of rock climbers. Thirty-eight male participants performed a sustained contraction at 40% of maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) until volitional fatigue. Oxygen saturation and blood flow was assessed using near infrared spectroscopy and Doppler ultrasound. Compared to control, intermediate, and advanced groups, the elite climbers had a significantly (P < 0.05) higher strength-to-weight ratio (MVC/N), de-oxygenated the flexor digitorum profundus significantly (P < 0.05) more (32, 34.3, and 42.8 vs. 63% O2, respectively), and at a greater rate (0.32, 0.27, and 0.34 vs. 0.77 O2%·s(-1), respectively). Furthermore, elite climbers de-oxygenated the flexor carpi radialis significantly (P < 0.05) more and at a greater rate than the intermediate group (36.5 vs. 14.6% O2 and 0.43 vs. 0.1O2%·s(-1), respectively). However, there were no significant differences in total forearm ∆ blood flow. An increased MVC/N is not associated with greater blood flow occlusion in elite climbers; therefore, oxidative capacity may be more important for governing performance.
目前,精英级攀岩者能够长时间维持强烈等长收缩的生理机制尚不清楚。此外,血流或肌肉氧化能力对运动表现的最佳调控作用也不明确。本研究旨在确定三个能力组别的攀岩者中两块前臂屈肌的血流动力学变化。38名男性参与者以最大自主收缩(MVC)的40%进行持续收缩,直至出现自愿性疲劳。使用近红外光谱和多普勒超声评估血氧饱和度和血流情况。与对照组、中级组和高级组相比,精英攀岩者的力量体重比(MVC/体重)显著更高(P<0.05),拇长屈肌的去氧程度显著更高(P<0.05)(分别为32%、34.3%和42.8%,而对照组为63%的氧含量),且去氧速率更快(分别为0.32、0.27和0.34,而对照组为0.77氧含量百分比·秒-1)。此外,精英攀岩者桡侧腕屈肌的去氧程度显著高于中级组(分别为36.5%和14.6%的氧含量),且去氧速率更快(分别为0.43和0.1氧含量百分比·秒-1)。然而,前臂总血流变化无显著差异。精英攀岩者中MVC/体重的增加与更大的血流阻断无关;因此,氧化能力可能对运动表现的调控更为重要。