Lefebvre M-A, Pham D-M, Boussouira B, Bernard D, Camus C, Nguyen Q-L
L'Oreal Research & Innovation, 11-13 rue Dora Mar, 93400, Saint-Ouen, France.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2015 Jun;37(3):329-38. doi: 10.1111/ics.12203. Epub 2015 Mar 18.
After pilot and preliminary studies aimed at identifying pertinent biochemical parameters, a multicenter clinical study was performed to evaluate the effect of pollution on human skin.
The clinical study was performed in collaboration with the 'Centre Régional de lutte contre le cancer de Montpellier' and the 'National Institute of Public Health of Mexico' on 96 subjects in Mexico City (exposed to pollution) and 93 subjects in Cuernavaca (less exposed to pollution). Both biochemical and clinical skin parameters were studied.
The study demonstrated significant quantitative and qualitative modifications of parameters related to sebum excretion in Mexico City compared to Cuernavaca one: An increased level of sebum excretion rate, a lower level of vitamin E and squalene in sebum, an increase of lactic acid and a higher erythematous index on the face of the subjects. In the stratum corneum, a significant higher level of carbonylated proteins and a lower level of IL 1α were noticed, as well as a decrease of ATP concentration with a decrease of chymotrysin like activity, without modifications of corneodesmosin content and trypsin like activity. From a clinical point of view, a higher frequency of atopic and urticarial skins, a higher frequency of red dermographism, an important seborrheic status at the forehead level and a lower level of dandruffs were noted in Mexico City population. The analysis taking into account the sex does not modify the observed results.
The study demonstrated an important impact of polluted environmental conditions on skin quality, evidencing important modifications of superficial biochemical parameters. The cause/effects relationships of these modifications remain, however, to be further assessed by a complementary in vitro/in vivo approaches.
在旨在确定相关生化参数的先导研究和初步研究之后,开展了一项多中心临床研究,以评估污染对人体皮肤的影响。
该临床研究是与“蒙彼利埃地区抗癌中心”和“墨西哥国家公共卫生研究所”合作进行的,研究对象为墨西哥城的96名受试者(暴露于污染环境)和库埃纳瓦卡的93名受试者(较少暴露于污染环境)。对生化和临床皮肤参数均进行了研究。
研究表明,与库埃纳瓦卡相比,墨西哥城与皮脂分泌相关的参数在数量和质量上均有显著变化:皮脂分泌率升高,皮脂中维生素E和角鲨烯水平降低,乳酸增加,受试者面部红斑指数更高。在角质层中,羰基化蛋白水平显著升高,白细胞介素1α水平降低,同时ATP浓度降低,糜蛋白酶样活性降低,而桥粒芯糖蛋白含量和胰蛋白酶样活性未发生变化。从临床角度来看,墨西哥城人群中特应性和荨麻疹性皮肤的发生率更高,红色划痕症的发生率更高,前额部位脂溢状况严重,头皮屑水平较低。考虑性别的分析并未改变观察结果。
该研究表明污染的环境条件对皮肤质量有重要影响,表明表面生化参数发生了重要变化。然而,这些变化的因果关系仍有待通过补充的体外/体内方法进一步评估。