Essendoubi M, Gobinet C, Reynaud R, Angiboust J F, Manfait M, Piot O
MEDyC Unit, MéDIAN Biophotonique et Technologies pour la Santé, SFR CAP SANTE, CNRS UMR 7369, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Reims Champagne - Ardenne (URCA), Reims, France.
Soliance, Route de Bazancourt, Pomacle, France.
Skin Res Technol. 2016 Feb;22(1):55-62. doi: 10.1111/srt.12228. Epub 2015 Apr 16.
Topical delivery of molecules into the human skin is one of the main issues in dermatology and cosmetology. Several techniques were developed to study molecules penetration into the human skin. Although widely accepted, the conventional methods such as Franz diffusion cells are unable to provide the accurate localization of actives in the skin layers. A different approach based on Raman spectroscopy has been proposed to follow-up the permeation of actives. It presents a high molecular specificity to distinguish exogenous molecules from skin constituents.
Raman micro-imaging was applied to monitor the skin penetration of hyaluronic acids (HA) of different molecular weights. The first step, was the spectral characterization of these HA. After, we have determined spectral features of HA by which they can be detected in the skin. In the second part, transverse skin sections were realized and spectral images were recorded.
Our results show a difference of skin permeation of the three HA. Indeed, HA with low molecular weight (20-300 kDa) passes through the stratum corneum in contrast of the impermeability of high molecular weight HA (1000-1400 kDa).
Raman spectroscopy represents an analytical, non-destructive, and dynamic method to evaluate the permeation of actives in the skin layers.
将分子经皮递送至人体皮肤是皮肤病学和美容学的主要问题之一。已开发出多种技术来研究分子渗透进入人体皮肤的情况。尽管传统方法如Franz扩散池已被广泛接受，但它们无法准确确定活性成分在皮肤各层中的定位。已提出一种基于拉曼光谱的不同方法来追踪活性成分的渗透情况。它具有很高的分子特异性，能够区分外源性分子与皮肤成分。
应用拉曼显微成像技术监测不同分子量透明质酸（HA）的皮肤渗透情况。第一步是对这些HA进行光谱表征。之后，我们确定了可在皮肤中检测到HA的光谱特征。在第二部分中，制作了皮肤横向切片并记录了光谱图像。
我们的结果显示三种HA的皮肤渗透情况存在差异。实际上，低分子量（20 - 300 kDa）的HA能够穿透角质层，而高分子量HA（1000 - 1400 kDa）则具有不透性。
拉曼光谱是一种分析性、非破坏性且动态的方法，可用于评估活性成分在皮肤各层中的渗透情况。
