Li Wen-Hwa, Wong Heng-Kuan, Serrano José, Randhawa Manpreet, Kaur Simarna, Southall Michael D, Parsa Ramine
Johnson & Johnson Skin Research Center, Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc., 199 Grandview Road, Skillman, NJ, 08558, USA.
Johnson & Johnson Skin Research Center, JJSBF, A Division of Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc., Val de Reuil, France.
Arch Dermatol Res. 2017 May;309(4):275-283. doi: 10.1007/s00403-017-1723-6. Epub 2017 Feb 28.
Skin Aging manifests primarily with wrinkles, dyspigmentations, texture changes, and loss of elasticity. During the skin aging process, there is a loss of moisture and elasticity in skin resulting in loss of firmness finally leading to skin sagging. The key molecule involved in skin moisture is hyaluronic acid (HA), which has a significant water-binding capacity. HA levels in skin decline with age resulting in decrease in skin moisture, which may contribute to loss of firmness. Clinical trials have shown that topically applied ROL effectively reduces wrinkles and helps retain youthful appearance. In the current study, ROL was shown to induce HA production and stimulates the gene expression of all three forms of hyaluronic acid synthases (HAS) in normal human epidermal keratinocytes monolayer cultures. Moreover, in human skin equivalent tissues and in human skin explants, topical treatment of tissues with a stabilized-ROL formulation significantly induced the gene expression of HAS mRNA concomitant with an increased HA production. Finally, in a vehicle-controlled human clinical study, histochemical analysis confirmed increased HA accumulation in the epidermis in ROL-treated human skin as compared to vehicle. These results show that ROL increases skin expression of HA, a significant contributing factor responsible for wrinkle formation and skin moisture, which decrease during aging. Taken together with the activity to increase collagen, elastin, and cell proliferation, these studies establish that retinol provides multi-functional activity for photodamaged skin.
皮肤老化主要表现为皱纹、色素沉着、质地改变和弹性丧失。在皮肤老化过程中，皮肤会失去水分和弹性，导致紧致度下降，最终导致皮肤松弛。皮肤水分的关键分子是透明质酸（HA），它具有显著的水结合能力。皮肤中的HA水平会随着年龄的增长而下降，导致皮肤水分减少，这可能会导致紧致度的丧失。临床试验表明，局部应用视黄醇（ROL）可有效减少皱纹，并有助于保持年轻外观。在当前的研究中，ROL被证明可诱导正常人表皮角质形成细胞单层培养物中HA的产生，并刺激所有三种形式的透明质酸合成酶（HAS）的基因表达。此外，在人皮肤等效组织和人皮肤外植体中，用稳定化的ROL制剂局部处理组织可显著诱导HAS mRNA的基因表达，同时HA产量增加。最后，在一项载体对照的人体临床研究中，组织化学分析证实，与载体相比，ROL处理的人皮肤表皮中HA的积累增加。这些结果表明，ROL可增加皮肤中HA的表达，HA是导致皱纹形成和皮肤水分减少的一个重要因素，而在衰老过程中皮肤水分会减少。结合其增加胶原蛋白、弹性蛋白和细胞增殖的活性，这些研究表明视黄醇为光损伤皮肤提供了多功能活性。
