Moore D J, Rawlings A V
GSK Consumer Healthcare, Skin Health R&D, 184 Liberty Corner Road, Warren, NJ 07059, USA.
AVR Consulting Ltd, 26 Shavington Way, Kingsmead, Northwich, Cheshire, CW9 8FH, UK.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2017 Aug;39(4):366-372. doi: 10.1111/ics.12399. Epub 2017 May 18.
Research on understanding of the chemistry, function and (patho)physiology of stratum corneum (SC) lipids and especially ceramides has evolved over the last two decades. This has been made successful through the application of separation techniques that have become increasingly more sophisticated, and it has become increasingly evident that our understanding of these molecules remains in its infancy. Thirteen classes of ceramides with over 300 and possibly up to 1000 distinct ceramide species have been identified suggesting an exquisitely subtle relationship between the types of ceramides and physical and chemical behaviour. Nevertheless, research has demonstrated the importance of the correct SC lipid lamellar architecture with conformationally-ordered lipid bilayers, the presence of long-chain ceramides, as either free or covalently bound lipids, greater quantities of phytosphingosine-containing ceramides and a high SC lipid/protein ratio is essential for optimal barrier function. These features are known to change in a variety of physiological and pathophysiological conditions. Clearly, there is more to be learned but as we further decipher the complexity of SC lipids and understand their individual roles in the SC, we will learn how to better treat the disorders of cornification.
在过去二十年中,关于角质层(SC)脂质尤其是神经酰胺的化学、功能及(病理)生理学的研究不断发展。通过应用日益复杂的分离技术,这一研究取得了成功,并且越来越明显的是,我们对这些分子的理解仍处于起步阶段。现已鉴定出十三类神经酰胺,包含超过300种、甚至可能多达1000种不同的神经酰胺种类,这表明神经酰胺类型与物理和化学行为之间存在极其微妙的关系。然而,研究表明,具有构象有序脂质双层的正确SC脂质层状结构、长链神经酰胺(作为游离或共价结合脂质)的存在、大量含植物鞘氨醇的神经酰胺以及高SC脂质/蛋白质比率对于最佳屏障功能至关重要。已知这些特征在多种生理和病理生理条件下会发生变化。显然,还有更多有待了解之处,但随着我们进一步解读SC脂质的复杂性并理解它们在SC中的各自作用,我们将学会如何更好地治疗角化异常疾病。