Magnet U, Urbanek C, Gaisberger D, Tomeva E, Dum E, Pointner A, Haslberger A G
Department for Nutritional Sciences, University of Vienna, Vienna, 1090, Austria.
HealthBioCare, Mooslackengasse 17, Vienna, 1090, Austria.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2017 Oct;39(5):535-542. doi: 10.1111/ics.12408. Epub 2017 Aug 4.
Equol has been shown to improve skin health and regeneration, due to its antioxidative, phytoestrogenic and epigenetic characteristics. The effects of a topical intervention on skin structure, telomere length and epigenetic markers in skin cells were analysed.
Sixty-four participants were divided in four groups and three of them treated topically with the following: emulsion with Equol powder (Isoflavandiol-E-55-RS®); emulsion with microencapsulated Equol (Vesisorb® Isoflavandiol-E-55-RS®) and an emulsion with lecithin (Vesisorb® placebo). A control group of 6 volunteers did not receive any intervention. The active compound was a 0.5% equol-racemate. For 58 participants, all samples were collected. Structural analysis, molecular analysis and questionnaires were performed at the start of the study and after 8 weeks of intervention, twice a day. Structural skin parameters were analysed by Visioscan® VC 98 and Cutometer® dual MPA 580. Molecular analyses from epidermal cells collected by skin stripping of the forehead included telomere length and LINE-1 methylation, following DNA extraction, bisulfite conversion and qPCR as well as high-resolution melting curve analysis. Effects of nutrition and lifestyle habits were evaluated with a standardized food and lifestyle questionnaire.
The surface analysis showed significant improvements in skin roughness, skin texture and skin smoothness after both interventions. Cutometer® dual MPA 580 measurement revealed improvement of skin firmness and elasticity parameters for both preparations. A decrease in mean LINE-1 methylation (n.s.) and telomere length (sign. P < 0.05) was observed in the sample group with age. In the treated groups, significantly longer telomeres were observed after intervention. Whether changes in telomere length reflect changes in the regulation of telomerase, epigenetic interactions or turnover of keratinocytes needs further research. Stability and availability of preparations in skin seems to be high as not many significant differences in the activity of pure or encapsulated substances were seen.
The results of this study indicate that equol has beneficial effects on structural as well as molecular skin parameters and encourages further investigations to decipher the epigenetic regulation of skin ageing and interactions of equol.
由于其抗氧化、植物雌激素和表观遗传特性，已证明雌马酚可改善皮肤健康和再生。分析了局部干预对皮肤结构、端粒长度和皮肤细胞表观遗传标记的影响。
64名参与者分为四组，其中三组接受以下局部治疗：含雌马酚粉末的乳液（异黄酮二醇 - E - 55 - RS®）；含微囊化雌马酚的乳液（Vesisorb®异黄酮二醇 - E - 55 - RS®）和含卵磷脂的乳液（Vesisorb®安慰剂）。6名志愿者组成的对照组未接受任何干预。活性化合物为0.5%的消旋雌马酚。对于58名参与者，在研究开始时和干预8周后，每天两次收集所有样本。通过Visioscan® VC 98和Cutometer® dual MPA 580分析皮肤结构参数。通过对前额皮肤剥脱收集的表皮细胞进行分子分析，包括端粒长度和LINE - 1甲基化，随后进行DNA提取、亚硫酸氢盐转化、qPCR以及高分辨率熔解曲线分析。通过标准化的饮食和生活方式问卷评估营养和生活习惯的影响。
表面分析显示，两种干预后皮肤粗糙度、皮肤纹理和皮肤光滑度均有显著改善。Cutometer® dual MPA 580测量显示两种制剂的皮肤紧致度和弹性参数均有所改善。在样本组中，观察到平均LINE - 1甲基化（无统计学意义）和端粒长度随年龄下降（P < 0.05，有统计学意义）。在治疗组中，干预后观察到端粒明显更长。端粒长度的变化是否反映端粒酶调节、表观遗传相互作用或角质形成细胞更新的变化需要进一步研究。制剂在皮肤中的稳定性和可用性似乎很高，因为纯物质或包囊物质的活性没有太多显著差异。
本研究结果表明，雌马酚对皮肤结构和分子参数具有有益作用，并鼓励进一步研究以阐明皮肤衰老的表观遗传调控和雌马酚的相互作用。
