Serafini Ilaria, Lombardi Livia, Fasolato Claudia, Sergi Manuel, Di Ottavio Francesca, Sciubba Fabio, Montesano Camilla, Guiso Marcella, Costanza Rita, Nucci Lucia, Curini Roberta, Postorino Paolo, Bruno Maurizio, Bianco Armandodoriano
a Dipartimento di Chimica , La Sapienza Università di Roma , Roma , Italy.
b Dipartimento di Scienze della Terra , La Sapienza Università di Roma , Roma , Italy.
Nat Prod Res. 2019 Apr;33(7):1040-1051. doi: 10.1080/14786419.2017.1342643. Epub 2017 Jul 5.
In this paper, the application of a multi-analytical approach for the characterisation of synthetic and natural dyes in a historical textile is presented. The work is focused on a historical dress of a Sicilian noblewoman, dating from about 1865-1870. Firstly, SERS on fibre was performed, in order to individuate the classes of dyes employed. The SERS spectra suggested the presence of two main dyes: mauveine and orcein. In order to confirm these preliminary results, two different extraction protocols were applied. The extracts obtained were analysed by ESI-MS, MALDI-ToF and UHPCL-MS analyses, confirming the SERS results. In particular, the application of the ammonia mild extraction technique allowed to selectively extract the phenoxazonic dyes, separating them already in the extraction step from the synthetic ones. Thanks to this multi-analytical approach, this dress could be considered as one of the first examples of employment of synthetic dyes in association with natural ones.
本文介绍了一种多分析方法在历史纺织品中合成染料和天然染料表征方面的应用。这项工作聚焦于一件约1865 - 1870年的西西里贵族女性的历史服装。首先，对纤维进行了表面增强拉曼光谱（SERS）分析，以确定所使用的染料类别。SERS光谱表明存在两种主要染料：苯胺紫和地衣红。为了证实这些初步结果，应用了两种不同的提取方案。对获得的提取物进行了电喷雾电离质谱（ESI - MS）、基质辅助激光解吸电离飞行时间质谱（MALDI - ToF）和超高效液相色谱 - 质谱（UHPCL - MS）分析，证实了SERS结果。特别是，氨温和提取技术的应用能够选择性地提取吩恶嗪类染料，在提取步骤中就将它们与合成染料分离。得益于这种多分析方法，这件服装可被视为合成染料与天然染料联合使用的首批实例之一。
