Pouradier F, Liu C, Wares J, Yokoyama E, Collaudin C, Panhard S, Saint-Léger D, Loussouarn G
L'Oreal Research and Innovation, 11-13 rue Dora Maar, 93400, Saint-Ouen, France.
L'Oreal Research and Innovation, No. 550 JinYu Rd., Pudong New Area, Shanghai, Pudong, 210206, China.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2017 Dec;39(6):629-636. doi: 10.1111/ics.12425. Epub 2017 Sep 29.
The re-greasing process and kinetics of the human scalp, post-shampooing, have been previously documented, in vivo, on a few Caucasian subjects. The objective of the presented research was to extend such knowledge over seven different ethnic groups.
The post-shampooing re-greasing kinetics of the scalp was studied on 1325 subjects (women and men of two distinct age classes) from seven different ethnic groups in their residential and native country. Sebum amounts were determined onto small shaved scalp areas at various times post-shampooing, using the Sebumeter technique.
As previously published on Caucasian subjects, scalp re-greasing process follows a hyperbolic-like kinetics over days. However, amounts of collected sebum highly vary with ethnicity. As recorded through the casual level (CL) at the equilibrium phase, 2-3 days post-shampooing, the highest amount of sebum was found in African American subjects, followed in descending order by Caucasian American, Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Caucasian European and Indian subjects, the latter showing very low values. Lower amounts of sebum were recorded in the older age class in all ethnics, as compared to the younger one, and male subjects were found higher sebum producers than women, irrespective of ethnicity.
The kinetics and slopes of the re-greasing process of the human scalp appear similar in all ethnic groups studied. However, striking quantitative differences are found between the seven ethnic groups, resulting from different sebaceous production levels and scalp hygiene routines.
此前已有研究在活体上对少数白种人受试者洗发后人类头皮的再油脂化过程及动力学进行了记录。本研究的目的是将此类知识扩展至七个不同种族群体。
在七个不同种族群体的1325名受试者(两个不同年龄段的男性和女性)所在的居住国及祖国,研究其洗发后头皮的再油脂化动力学。使用皮脂测定技术在洗发后的不同时间,测定小面积剃发头皮区域的皮脂量。
正如之前在白种人受试者上发表的研究结果,头皮再油脂化过程在数天内遵循类似双曲线的动力学。然而,收集到的皮脂量因种族差异而有很大不同。在洗发后2 - 3天的平衡阶段,通过偶然水平(CL)记录发现,非裔美国受试者的皮脂量最高,其次依次是欧裔美国、日本、中国、泰国、欧裔白种人和印度受试者,后者的皮脂量非常低。在所有种族中,与较年轻年龄组相比,较年长年龄组记录到的皮脂量更低,并且无论种族如何,男性受试者的皮脂分泌量都高于女性。
在所有研究的种族群体中,人类头皮再油脂化过程的动力学和斜率似乎相似。然而,由于皮脂腺分泌水平和头皮卫生习惯不同,七个种族群体之间存在显著的数量差异。