Milani Massimo, Sparavigna Adele
Medical Department, Cantabria Labs Difa Cooper, Caronno Pertusella.
Derming, Clinical Research and Bioengineering Institute, Milan, Italy.
Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018 Jan 24;11:51-57. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S153905. eCollection 2018.
Skin is a complete and independent melatoninergic system. At the skin level, melatonin (Mel) acts as a relevant antioxidant and cytoprotective substance. Topical application of Mel is considered meaningful, since it can easily penetrate the stratum corneum. Exogenous Mel can be expected to represent a potent antioxidative defense system against skin aging mechanisms. Day and night creams containing Mel, carried in lipospheres (Melatosphere™), have been developed (Nutriage SPF 30 day cream and Nutriage night cream).
The aim of this study was to evaluate the efficacy of a Mel-based cream as antiaging treatment.
In a randomized, split-face, assessor-blinded, prospective 3-month study, 22 women (mean age 55 years) with moderate-severe skin aging were enrolled (clinical trial registration number: NCT03276897). Study products were applied in the morning (Nutriage day cream) and evening (Nutriage night cream) on the right or left side of the face. Primary outcomes were: 1) clinical evaluation of wrinkles' grade (crow's feet and nasolabial folds), surface microrelief, skin tonicity (resistance to pinching and traction, recovery after pinching) and skin dryness and 2) instrumental evaluation of skin roughness and 3D photographic documentation (Vectra H1 images system). Assessments of both clinical and instrumental evaluations were performed at baseline and after 1, 2 and 3 months of treatment by an investigator unaware of treatment allocation.
All the subjects completed the study. Crow's feet was reduced significantly (=0.05) by -15% with the creams in comparison with the non-treated side after 3 months. At the end of the study, surface microrelief (-26.5%), skin profilometry (-13%), skin tonicity (+30%) and skin dryness (-59.5%) significantly improved with active treatment. Both products were well tolerated.
In women with skin aging, Mel-based creams improved significantly skin tonicity and skin hydration with a significant reduction in skin roughness, supporting the skin antiaging effect of this molecule applied topically.
皮肤是一个完整且独立的褪黑素能系统。在皮肤层面，褪黑素（Mel）作为一种重要的抗氧化剂和细胞保护物质发挥作用。Mel的局部应用被认为具有重要意义，因为它能够轻易穿透角质层。外源性Mel有望成为抵御皮肤衰老机制的强大抗氧化防御系统。已经研发出了含有包裹在脂质体中的Mel（Melatosphere™）的日霜和晚霜（Nutriage SPF 30日霜和Nutriage晚霜）。
本研究的目的是评估一种基于Mel的面霜作为抗老化治疗的疗效。
在一项随机、半脸、评估者盲法、前瞻性的3个月研究中，招募了22名患有中度至重度皮肤衰老的女性（平均年龄55岁）（临床试验注册号：NCT03276897）。研究产品于早晨（Nutriage日霜）和晚上（Nutriage晚霜）分别涂抹于面部的右侧或左侧。主要结局指标为：1）皱纹等级（鱼尾纹和鼻唇沟）、表面微观起伏、皮肤张力（抗挤压和拉伸能力、挤压后恢复情况）以及皮肤干燥程度的临床评估；2）皮肤粗糙度的仪器评估；3）三维摄影记录（Vectra H1图像系统）。临床和仪器评估均在基线时以及治疗1、2和3个月后由一名不知治疗分配情况的研究者进行。
所有受试者均完成了研究。3个月后，与未治疗侧相比，使用面霜后鱼尾纹显著减少（=0.05），减少了15%。在研究结束时，活性治疗使表面微观起伏（-26.5%）、皮肤轮廓测量值（-13%）、皮肤张力（+30%）和皮肤干燥程度（-59.5%）均有显著改善。两种产品的耐受性均良好。
在皮肤衰老的女性中，基于Mel的面霜显著改善了皮肤张力和皮肤水合作用，同时皮肤粗糙度显著降低，支持了该分子局部应用的皮肤抗老化效果。
