State Key Laboratory of Chemical Oncogenomics, Shenzhen International Graduate School, Tsinghua University, Shenzhen 518055, China.
Open FIESTA Center, Shenzhen International Graduate School, Tsinghua University, Shenzhen 518055, China.
Molecules. 2023 Jul 20;28(14):5556. doi: 10.3390/molecules28145556.
With the advancement of living standards in modern society and the emergence of an aging population, an increasing number of people are becoming interested in the topic of aging and anti-aging. An important feature of aging is skin aging, and women are particularly concerned about skin aging. In the field of cosmetics, the market share of anti-aging products is increasing year by year. This article reviews the research and development progress of skin aging and related active compounds both domestically and internationally in recent years. The results show that, in terms of the research on skin aging, the popular theories mainly include free radicals and oxidative stress theory, inflammation theory, photoaging theory, and nonenzymatic glycosyl chemistry theory. In terms of research on the active ingredients with anti-aging activities in the skin, there are numerous reports on related products in clinical studies on human subjects, animal experiments, and experimental studies on cell cultures, with a variety of types. Most of the compounds against skin aging are sourced from natural products and their action mechanisms are mainly related to scavenging oxygen free radicals and enhancing antioxidant defenses. This review provides important references for the future research of skin aging and the development of related products. Although there is a great progress in skin aging including related active ingredients, ideal compounds or products are still lacking and need to be further validated. New mechanisms of skin aging, new active ingredients sourced from natural and artificial products, and new pharmaceutical forms including further clinical validations should be further investigated in the future.
随着现代社会生活水平的提高和人口老龄化的出现，越来越多的人对衰老和抗衰老的话题感兴趣。衰老的一个重要特征是皮肤衰老，而女性尤其关注皮肤衰老。在化妆品领域，抗衰老产品的市场份额逐年增加。本文综述了近年来国内外皮肤衰老及相关活性化合物的研究开发进展。结果表明，在皮肤衰老研究方面，流行的理论主要包括自由基和氧化应激理论、炎症理论、光老化理论和非酶糖化化学理论。在具有皮肤抗衰老活性的活性成分研究方面，在人体临床试验、动物实验和细胞培养实验方面有大量关于相关产品的报道，类型繁多。大多数抗皮肤衰老的化合物都来自天然产物，其作用机制主要与清除氧自由基和增强抗氧化防御有关。本综述为皮肤衰老的未来研究和相关产品的开发提供了重要参考。尽管皮肤衰老包括相关的活性成分取得了很大的进展，但仍缺乏理想的化合物或产品，需要进一步验证。未来应进一步研究皮肤衰老的新机制、天然和人工产物来源的新活性成分，以及包括进一步临床验证在内的新药物制剂。
