Institute of Pharmaceutical Technology, Lithuanian University of Health Sciences, Medical Academy, Sukileliu pr. 13, LT-50162 Kaunas, Lithuania.
Department of Drug Technology and Social Pharmacy, Lithuanian University of Health Sciences, Medical Academy, Sukileliu pr. 13, LT-50162 Kaunas, Lithuania.
Molecules. 2018 Jun 12;23(6):1428. doi: 10.3390/molecules23061428.
The increased interest in natural cosmetics has resulted in a higher market demand for preservative-free products based on herbal ingredients. An innovative W/O/W type emulsions containing herbal extracts were prepared directly; its cation form was induced by an ethanolic rosemary extract and stabilized using weak herbal gels. Due to the wide phytochemical composition of herbal extracts and the presence of alcohol in the emulsion system, which can cause skin irritation, sensitization or dryness when applied topically, the safety of the investigated drug delivery system is necessary. The aim of our study was to estimate the potential of W/O/W emulsions based on natural ingredients for skin irritation and phototoxicity using reconstructed 3D epidermis models in vitro and to evaluate in vivo its effect on human skin moisture, sebum content and pigmentation by biomedical examination using a dermatoscopic camera and corneometer. According to the results obtained after in vitro cell viability test the investigated emulsion was neither irritant nor phototoxic to human skin keratinocytes. W/O/W emulsion did not cause skin dryness in vivo, despite the fact that it contained ethanol. We can conclude that the emulsion is safe for use as a leave-on product due to the positive effect on human skin characteristics or as a semisolid pharmaceutical base where active compounds could be encapsulated.
人们对天然化妆品的兴趣日益浓厚，导致市场对基于草药成分的不含防腐剂的产品的需求增加。本研究创新性地直接制备了含有草药提取物的 W/O/W 型乳剂，其阳离子形式由含醇的迷迭香提取物诱导，并使用弱草药凝胶稳定。由于草药提取物的广泛植物化学成分以及乳剂系统中存在的酒精，当局部应用时可能会引起皮肤刺激、过敏或干燥，因此有必要评估所研究的药物传递系统的安全性。我们的研究目的是使用体外重建的 3D 表皮模型评估基于天然成分的 W/O/W 乳剂对皮肤刺激和光毒性的潜在性，并使用皮肤镜和皮脂计等生物医学检查评估其对人体皮肤水分、皮脂含量和色素沉着的体内影响。根据体外细胞活力测试的结果，该研究乳剂对人皮肤角质形成细胞既无刺激性也无光毒性。尽管 W/O/W 乳剂中含有乙醇，但它在体内不会引起皮肤干燥。我们可以得出结论，由于该乳剂对人体皮肤特性有积极影响，可以作为免洗产品使用，也可以作为半固体药物基质，其中可以封装活性化合物。
