Hernandez-Pigeon Hélène, Garidou Lucile, Galliano Marie-Florence, Delga Hélène, Aries Marie-Françoise, Duplan Hélène, Bessou-Touya Sandrine, Castex-Rizzi Nathalie
Department of Pharmacology, Pierre FABRE Dermo-Cosmétique R&D Center, Toulouse, France,
Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018 Sep 7;11:421-429. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S168621. eCollection 2018.
Rosacea is a chronic facial skin disorder characterized by inflammation and vascular abnormalities. The pathophysiology of rosacea involves increased activation of the capsaicin receptor, TRPV1, the vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) pathway, and cathelicidin LL-37, MMP-9, and KLKs. We evaluated the activity of four compounds (dextran sulfate, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol [BCH; TRP-regulin], pongamia oil, and hesperidin methyl chalcone [HMC]) on inflammatory and vascular responses implicated in rosacea.
The anti-inflammatory activity of dextran sulfate was evaluated on PGE2 production after PMA stimulation of NCTC-2544 keratinocytes, and on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) after proinflammatory stimulation to mimic a rosacea environment. The anti-angiogenic activity of dextran sulfate was measured by analyzing pseudotube formation in co-cultured human microvascular endothelial cells/normal human dermal fibroblasts. HMC modulation of vascular responses and IL-8 cytokine production after SP stimulation was evaluated in human skin explants. We also assessed the effect of BCH on TRPV1 activation, and the effect of combined BCH and pongamia oil on the inflammatory response of NHEKs.
Dextran sulfate strongly and significantly inhibited PMA-induced PGE2 production, inhibited KLK5 and MMP-9 mRNA expression, and IL-8, IL-1α and VEGF production, and displayed a highly significant inhibitory effect on VEGF-induced pseudotube formation. In SP-stimulated human skin explants, HMC significantly decreased the proportion of dilated vessels, total vessel area, and IL-8 production. BCH significantly and dose-dependently inhibited TRPV1 activation, and BCH and pongamia oil inhibited CXCL1 and CXCL6 mRNA expression and IL-8 production in NHEKs. Combined BCH/pongamia oil inhibited IL-8 production synergistically.
These in vitro results showed that dextran sulfate, BCH, pongamia oil and HMC, possess complementary soothing and anti-redness properties, supporting their combination in Avène redness-relief cosmetic products for sensitive skin prone to redness, and for topical adjunctive rosacea treatment.
酒渣鼻是一种慢性面部皮肤疾病,其特征为炎症和血管异常。酒渣鼻的病理生理学涉及辣椒素受体TRPV1、血管内皮生长因子(VEGF)途径以及抗菌肽LL-37、基质金属蛋白酶-9(MMP-9)和激肽释放酶(KLKs)的激活增加。我们评估了四种化合物(硫酸葡聚糖、4-叔丁基环己醇[BCH;TRP调节剂]、水黄皮油和橙皮苷甲基查耳酮[HMC])对酒渣鼻相关炎症和血管反应的活性。
评估硫酸葡聚糖对佛波酯(PMA)刺激NCTC-2544角质形成细胞后前列腺素E2(PGE2)产生的抗炎活性,以及对促炎刺激后正常人表皮角质形成细胞(NHEKs)的抗炎活性,以模拟酒渣鼻环境。通过分析共培养的人微血管内皮细胞/正常人真皮成纤维细胞中的假管形成来测定硫酸葡聚糖的抗血管生成活性。在人皮肤外植体中评估HMC对P物质(SP)刺激后血管反应和白细胞介素-8(IL-8)细胞因子产生的调节作用。我们还评估了BCH对TRPV1激活的影响,以及BCH与水黄皮油联合对NHEKs炎症反应的影响。
硫酸葡聚糖强烈且显著抑制PMA诱导的PGE2产生,抑制KLK5和MMP-9 mRNA表达以及IL-8、IL-1α和VEGF产生,并对VEGF诱导的假管形成显示出高度显著的抑制作用。在SP刺激的人皮肤外植体中,HMC显著降低扩张血管的比例、总血管面积和IL-8产生。BCH显著且剂量依赖性地抑制TRPV1激活,BCH与水黄皮油抑制NHEKs中CXCL1和CXCL6 mRNA表达以及IL-8产生。BCH/水黄皮油联合使用协同抑制IL-8产生。
这些体外实验结果表明,硫酸葡聚糖、BCH、水黄皮油和HMC具有互补的舒缓和抗红特性,支持它们组合用于雅漾缓解泛红的敏感皮肤化妆品以及酒渣鼻的局部辅助治疗。