Coatings Research Institute, Eastern Michigan University, Ypsilanti, MI, USA.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2018 Dec;40(6):555-564. doi: 10.1111/ics.12497. Epub 2018 Dec 6.
Gel nail polishes represent an advanced class of nail polishes, with the ability to cure under ultraviolet (UV) radiation, and consequently demonstrate improved properties and greater durability compared to conventional nail polishes. Most gel nail polishes available today are based on petrochemical resources, making them unsustainable. Bio-based materials are excellent renewable resources, with high potential for meeting final-product performance, cost, and environmental needs. In addition, bio-based materials can be modified to make them amenable to being cured by advanced Light Emitting Diode (LED) resources that consume low energy and are safer for human exposure compared to conventional UV-mercury lamps. Consumer preference for use of products made from bio-based sources has been clearly growing. On the other hand, according to the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) technology roadmap, a considerable amount of basic chemical building blocks should be derived from plant-based renewable materials in near future. However, to the best of our knowledge, bio-based nail products have not been sufficiently explored. Therefore, to keep pace with environmental regulations and consumer preference, there is an unmet opportunity to develop novel, sustainable nail gel polishes with considerable bio-renewable content. In this study, two sustainable UV-LED curable gel nail polish prototypes-one high-solids zero-volatile organic content (VOC) and the other waterborne, both with considerable bio-renewable content, were designed.
Both formulations were cured under both UV-mercury and UV-LED radiation sources in order to evaluate their curing efficiency under a UV-LED source. Also, their performance was compared with a commercial petro-based benchmark.
The high-solids formulation demonstrated promising performance, exceeding that of the benchmark in opacity, chemical properties, gloss, and pendulum hardness, while the waterborne formulation met most of the desirable requirements with some significant technical benefits, including low odour and higher renewable raw material content.
These novel gel nail polishes are greener alternatives to the current products in the market with high potential for promising consumer acceptance.
凝胶指甲彩光代表指甲彩光的高级类别,能够在紫外线(UV)辐射下固化,因此与传统指甲彩光相比,具有更好的性能和更高的耐用性。如今,大多数凝胶指甲彩光都基于石化资源,这使得它们无法持续发展。生物基材料是极好的可再生资源,具有满足最终产品性能、成本和环境需求的巨大潜力。此外,生物基材料可以进行改性,使其易于用光致发光二极管(LED)资源固化,与传统的 UV-汞灯相比,这种 LED 资源消耗的能量低,对人体暴露更安全。消费者对使用生物基来源产品的偏好明显增长。另一方面,根据美国能源部(DOE)的技术路线图,在不久的将来,相当数量的基础化工原料应该来自植物基可再生材料。然而,据我们所知,生物基指甲产品尚未得到充分探索。因此,为了跟上环境法规和消费者偏好的步伐,有机会开发具有相当大生物可再生含量的新型可持续指甲凝胶彩光产品。在这项研究中,设计了两种可持续的 UV-LED 可固化凝胶指甲彩光原型产品——一种高固体零挥发性有机化合物(VOC),另一种为水性,两者都具有相当大的生物可再生含量。
两种配方都在 UV-汞和 UV-LED 辐射源下固化,以评估其在 UV-LED 源下的固化效率。还将它们的性能与商业石油基基准进行了比较。
高固体配方表现出有希望的性能,在不透明度、化学性质、光泽度和摆锤硬度方面超过基准,而水性配方满足了大部分理想要求,具有一些显著的技术优势,包括低气味和更高的可再生原料含量。
这些新型凝胶指甲彩光是当前市场产品的更环保替代品,具有很高的消费者接受潜力。