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紫外光固化指甲油背后的化学原理。

The Chemistry of Behind the UV-Curable Nail Polishes.

作者信息

Mieriņa Inese, Grigale-Sorocina Zane, Birks Ingmars

机构信息

Institute of Chemistry and Chemical Technology, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Technology, Riga Technical University, P.Valdena Str. 3, LV-1048 Riga, Latvia.

R&D, Kinetics Nail Systems, Kurzemes Prospekts 3K, LV-1067 Riga, Latvia.

出版信息

Polymers (Basel). 2025 Apr 25;17(9):1166. doi: 10.3390/polym17091166.

DOI:10.3390/polym17091166
PMID:40362950
原文链接:https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC12073227/
Abstract

As far as history tells, people have set efforts both to improve the conditions and to change the visual outfit of the skin, nails, and hair. The first information on nail cosmetics is found in ancient China and Egypt, where various nature-derived compositions were used for changing the colour of the nails. Nowadays more mechanically and chemically durable systems for nail polishes are elaborated. This review focuses on the latest achievements in the field of UV-curable nail polishes. Herein, the polymerization mechanisms of various systems (acrylates, as well as epoxides and thiols) occurring in nail polishes are described. Besides plausible side reactions of the polymerization process are characterized. Thus, the main drawbacks for forming a uniform, perfect layer are illuminated. For effective curing, the choice of photoinitiators may be crucial; thus, various types of photoinitiators as well as their main advantages and disadvantages are characterized. Ensuring effective adhesion between the substrate (human nail) and the polymer film is one of the challenges for the nail polish industry-thus the plausible interactions between the adhesion promoters and the keratin are described. Regarding the film-forming agents, a comprehensive overview of the composition of the traditional UV-curing nail polishes is provided, but the main emphasis is devoted to alternative, nature-derived film-forming agents that could introduce renewable resources into nail cosmetics. Additionally, this review gives short insight into the latest innovations in UV-curing nail cosmetics, like (1) nail polishes with improved pealability, (2) covalently polymer-bonded dyes and photoinitiators, thus reducing the release of the low-molecular compounds or their degradation products, and (3) UV-curing nail polishes as delivery systems for nail treatment medicine.

摘要

据历史记载，人们一直在努力改善皮肤、指甲和头发的状况并改变其外观。关于指甲化妆品的最早信息见于古代中国和埃及，在那里人们使用各种天然成分来改变指甲的颜色。如今，人们研发出了更具机械和化学耐久性的指甲油体系。本综述聚焦于紫外光固化指甲油领域的最新成果。本文描述了指甲油中各种体系（丙烯酸酯以及环氧化物和硫醇）的聚合机理。此外，还对聚合过程中可能出现的副反应进行了表征。由此，阐明了形成均匀完美涂层的主要缺点。对于有效的固化而言，光引发剂的选择可能至关重要；因此，对各种类型的光引发剂及其主要优缺点进行了表征。确保底物（人的指甲）与聚合物膜之间的有效粘附是指甲油行业面临的挑战之一——因此描述了粘附促进剂与角蛋白之间可能的相互作用。关于成膜剂，本文对传统紫外光固化指甲油的成分进行了全面概述，但主要重点是替代的、天然来源的成膜剂，这些成膜剂可将可再生资源引入指甲化妆品中。此外，本综述简要介绍了紫外光固化指甲化妆品的最新创新，如（1）具有改进可剥性的指甲油，（2）共价聚合物键合的染料和光引发剂，从而减少低分子化合物或其降解产物的释放，以及（3）作为指甲治疗药物递送系统的紫外光固化指甲油。

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