The Chemistry of Behind the UV-Curable Nail Polishes.

As far as history tells, people have set efforts both to improve the conditions and to change the visual outfit of the skin, nails, and hair. The first information on nail cosmetics is found in ancient China and Egypt, where various nature-derived compositions were used for changing the colour of the nails. Nowadays more mechanically and chemically durable systems for nail polishes are elaborated. This review focuses on the latest achievements in the field of UV-curable nail polishes. Herein, the polymerization mechanisms of various systems (acrylates, as well as epoxides and thiols) occurring in nail polishes are described. Besides plausible side reactions of the polymerization process are characterized. Thus, the main drawbacks for forming a uniform, perfect layer are illuminated. For effective curing, the choice of photoinitiators may be crucial; thus, various types of photoinitiators as well as their main advantages and disadvantages are characterized. Ensuring effective adhesion between the substrate (human nail) and the polymer film is one of the challenges for the nail polish industry-thus the plausible interactions between the adhesion promoters and the keratin are described. Regarding the film-forming agents, a comprehensive overview of the composition of the traditional UV-curing nail polishes is provided, but the main emphasis is devoted to alternative, nature-derived film-forming agents that could introduce renewable resources into nail cosmetics. Additionally, this review gives short insight into the latest innovations in UV-curing nail cosmetics, like (1) nail polishes with improved pealability, (2) covalently polymer-bonded dyes and photoinitiators, thus reducing the release of the low-molecular compounds or their degradation products, and (3) UV-curing nail polishes as delivery systems for nail treatment medicine.