4Life Research, Scientific Research Division, Sandy, UT 84070, USA.
Department of Physiology, Developmental Biology and The Neuroscience Center, Brigham Young University, Provo, UT 84602, USA.
Int J Mol Sci. 2018 Oct 7;19(10):3059. doi: 10.3390/ijms19103059.
The history of cosmetics goes back to early Egyptian times for hygiene and health benefits while the history of topical applications that provide a medicinal treatment to combat dermal aging is relatively new. For example, the term cosmeceutical was first coined by Albert Kligman in 1984 to describe topical products that afford both cosmetic and therapeutic benefits. However, beauty comes from the inside. Therefore, for some time scientists have considered how nutrition reflects healthy skin and the aging process. The more recent link between nutrition and skin aging began in earnest around the year 2000 with the demonstrated increase in peer-reviewed scientific journal reports on this topic that included biochemical and molecular mechanisms of action. Thus, the application of: (a) topical administration from outside into the skin and (b) inside by oral consumption of nutritionals to the outer skin layers is now common place and many journal reports exhibit significant improvement for both on a variety of dermal parameters. Therefore, this review covers, where applicable, the history, chemical structure, and sources such as biological and biomedical properties in the skin along with animal and clinical data on the oral applications of: (a) collagen, (b) ceramide, (c) β-carotene, (d) astaxanthin, (e) coenzyme Q, (f) colostrum, (g) zinc, and (h) selenium in their mode of action or function in improving dermal health by various quantified endpoints. Lastly, the importance of the human skin microbiome is briefly discussed in reference to the genomics, measurement, and factors influencing its expression and how it may alter the immune system, various dermal disorders, and potentially be involved in chemoprevention.
化妆品的历史可以追溯到古埃及时代,当时人们使用化妆品是为了保持卫生和健康,而将局部应用于皮肤以提供治疗性药物来对抗皮肤衰老的历史则相对较新。例如,“cosmeceutical”一词是由 Albert Kligman 于 1984 年创造的,用于描述具有美容和治疗功效的局部用产品。然而,美源自内在。因此,一段时间以来,科学家们一直在研究营养如何反映健康的皮肤和衰老过程。近年来,营养与皮肤衰老之间的联系始于 21 世纪初,当时在同行评议的科学期刊上发表了越来越多关于这一主题的报告,其中包括生化和分子作用机制。因此,将:(a) 局部施用于皮肤外部和 (b) 通过口服摄入营养物质作用于皮肤外层,现在已经很常见了,许多期刊报告都显示出对各种皮肤参数的显著改善。因此,本综述涵盖了适用的历史、化学结构和来源,如生物和生物医学特性,以及关于口服应用于皮肤的:(a) 胶原蛋白、(b) 神经酰胺、(c) β-胡萝卜素、(d) 虾青素、(e) 辅酶 Q、(f) 初乳、(g) 锌和 (h) 硒的动物和临床数据,这些物质在改善皮肤健康方面的作用或功能通过各种量化终点。最后,简要讨论了人类皮肤微生物组的重要性,涉及到基因组学、测量、影响其表达的因素,以及它如何改变免疫系统、各种皮肤疾病,并且可能参与化学预防。