Messaraa C, Doyle L, Mansfield A, O'Connor C, Mavon A
Oriflame R&D, Bray, Ireland.
Oriflame Skin Research Institute, Oriflame Cosmetics AB, Stockholm, Sweden.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2019 Feb;41(1):79-88. doi: 10.1111/ics.12514. Epub 2019 Feb 14.
In spite of hand care being a dynamic segment of skin care, hands skin physiology has been receiving little attention in comparison to facial skin. In the present study, we aimed at gathering a comprehensive set of skin data from the dorsal part of the hand to study age related-changes in two ethnic groups (Caucasian and Chinese).
Skin topographic, skin colour/colour heterogeneities, skin chromophores and skin biophysical measurements of 116 Caucasian and Chinese female volunteers aged 30-65 years old were collected in Ireland and in China as part of a cross-sectional study.
Topographic alterations happened at both micro and macro scales with a noticeable delay in the onset of 10 years for the Chinese cohort. Similar evolution of skin colour with ageing was observed between the two cohorts and strong dissimilarities were seen when it came to colour heterogeneities and melanin hyper concentration, with a 20-year delay in severity for the Chinese cohort. A similar sharp drop of skin hydration occurred when reaching the 60's regardless of the group and substantial differences were recorded for skin biomechanical properties of the skin.
These results provide additional insights about hand skin physiology in relation to ageing and ethnic differences, especially when put into perspective with what is currently known about facial ageing. This research yield additional material for hand cream product rationale and strategies for mitigating the appearance of ageing hands.
尽管手部护理是皮肤护理中一个活跃的领域,但与面部皮肤相比,手部皮肤生理学一直很少受到关注。在本研究中,我们旨在收集一组全面的手部背部皮肤数据,以研究两个种族群体(白种人和中国人)与年龄相关的变化。
作为一项横断面研究的一部分,在爱尔兰和中国收集了116名年龄在30 - 65岁之间的白种人和中国女性志愿者的皮肤地形图、皮肤颜色/颜色异质性、皮肤发色团和皮肤生物物理测量数据。
在微观和宏观尺度上均出现了地形变化,中国队列的发病延迟了10年。两个队列之间观察到皮肤颜色随年龄增长的相似演变,在颜色异质性和黑色素过度集中方面存在强烈差异,中国队列的严重程度延迟了20年。无论哪个组,在60多岁时皮肤水分含量都出现了类似的急剧下降,并且记录到皮肤生物力学性能存在显著差异。
这些结果提供了有关手部皮肤生理学与衰老和种族差异相关的更多见解,特别是与目前已知的面部衰老情况相比。这项研究为护手霜产品原理和减轻手部衰老外观的策略提供了更多素材。