Nouveau-Richard S, Yang Z, Mac-Mary S, Li L, Bastien P, Tardy I, Bouillon C, Humbert P, de Lacharrière O
L'Oréal Recherche, Centre Charles Zviak, 90 rue du General Roguet, 92583 Clichy, France.
J Dermatol Sci. 2005 Dec;40(3):187-93. doi: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2005.06.006. Epub 2005 Sep 8.
Although limited data are available, it is commonly considered that Europeans and Asians have different skin ageing features.
The present studies have been carried out to evaluate the influence of age and sun-exposure on the main clinical signs of Asian skin ageing.
One hundred and sixty Chinese and 160 French age-matched women (age range: 20-60 years old) were clinically examined and scored by the same dermatologist. Facial wrinkles (crow's-feet, glabella and perioral wrinkles) and pigmented spots (on face and hands) were assessed in situ and standardized photographs of the face were taken. Lifelong sun-exposure was estimated from answers to a questionnaire. Comparisons were made between 10-year age groups.
Results show that, for each facial skin area, wrinkle onset is delayed by about 10 years in Chinese women as compared to French women. Facial wrinkling rate over the years is linear in French women and not linear in Chinese women who appear to experience a fast ageing process between age 40 and 50. Pigmented spot intensity is a much more important ageing sign in Chinese women (severe for 30% of women over 40) than in French women (severe for less than 8% of women, irrespective of age).
These first results underline that main skin ageing features (wrinkles, spots) progress differently in the Chinese and French women we have studied. They require to be confirmed on broad multicentre studies involving larger cohorts.
尽管现有数据有限,但人们普遍认为欧洲人和亚洲人具有不同的皮肤老化特征。
开展本研究以评估年龄和日晒对亚洲人皮肤老化主要临床体征的影响。
由同一位皮肤科医生对160名中国女性和160名年龄匹配的法国女性(年龄范围:20 - 60岁)进行临床检查并评分。对脸部皱纹(鱼尾纹、眉间纹和口周皱纹)和色素沉着斑(脸部和手部)进行现场评估,并拍摄脸部标准化照片。通过问卷回答来估计终生日晒情况。对10岁年龄组之间进行比较。
结果显示,对于每个面部皮肤区域,与法国女性相比,中国女性的皱纹出现时间延迟约10年。多年来,法国女性的面部皱纹形成率呈线性,而中国女性则不然,中国女性在40至50岁之间似乎经历快速老化过程。色素沉着斑强度在中国女性(40岁以上女性中有30%情况严重)中是比法国女性(无论年龄,情况严重的女性不到8%)更重要的老化体征。
这些初步结果强调,我们所研究的中国和法国女性的主要皮肤老化特征(皱纹、斑点)进展情况不同。它们需要在涉及更大队列的广泛多中心研究中得到证实。