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攀岩中的协调:技能、练习和限制因素操纵的影响。

Coordination in Climbing: Effect of Skill, Practice and Constraints Manipulation.

作者信息

Orth Dominic, Davids Keith, Seifert Ludovic

机构信息

CETAPS-EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen, Mont Saint Aignan, France.

School of Exercise and Nutrition Science, Queensland University of Technology, Brisbane, QLD, Australia.

出版信息

Sports Med. 2016 Feb;46(2):255-68. doi: 10.1007/s40279-015-0417-5.

Abstract

BACKGROUND

Climbing is a physical activity and sport involving many subdisciplines. Minimization of prolonged pauses, use of a relatively simple path through a route and smooth transitions between movements broadly define skilled coordination in climbing.

OBJECTIVES

To provide an overview of the constraints on skilled coordination in climbing and to explore future directions in this emerging field.

METHODS

A systematic literature review was conducted in 2014 and retrieved studies reporting perceptual and movement data during climbing tasks. To be eligible for the qualitative synthesis, studies were required to report perceptual or movement data during climbing tasks graded for difficulty.

RESULTS

Qualitative synthesis of 42 studies was carried out, showing that skilled coordination in climbing is underpinned by superior perception of climbing opportunities; optimization of spatial-temporal features pertaining to body-to-wall coordination, the climb trajectory and hand-to-hold surface contact; and minimization of exploratory behaviour. Improvements in skilled coordination due to practice are related to task novelty and the difficulty of the climbing route relative to the individual's ability level.

CONCLUSION

Perceptual and motor adaptations that improve skilled coordination are highly significant for improving the climbing ability level. Elite climbers exhibit advantages in detection and use of climbing opportunities when visually inspecting a route from the ground and when physically moving though a route. However, the need to provide clear guidelines on how to improve climbing skill arises from uncertainties regarding the impacts of different practice interventions on learning and transfer.

摘要

背景

攀岩是一项涉及多个子领域的体育活动和运动项目。尽量减少长时间停顿、采用相对简单的路线以及动作之间的平稳过渡大致定义了攀岩中的熟练协调。

目的

概述攀岩中熟练协调的制约因素,并探索这一新兴领域的未来发展方向。

方法

2014年进行了一项系统的文献综述,检索了报告攀岩任务期间感知和运动数据的研究。为了符合定性综合分析的条件,要求研究报告难度分级的攀岩任务期间的感知或运动数据。

结果

对42项研究进行了定性综合分析,结果表明,攀岩中的熟练协调基于对攀岩机会的卓越感知;与身体与岩壁协调、攀爬轨迹和手与支撑面接触相关的时空特征的优化;以及探索行为的最小化。练习导致的熟练协调能力的提高与任务新颖性以及相对于个人能力水平的攀岩路线难度有关。

结论

改善熟练协调的感知和运动适应对于提高攀岩能力水平非常重要。精英攀岩者在从地面目视检查路线以及实际攀爬路线时,在发现和利用攀岩机会方面表现出优势。然而,由于不同练习干预对学习和迁移的影响存在不确定性,因此需要提供有关如何提高攀岩技能的明确指导方针。

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