Georgiev Vasil, Slavov Anton, Vasileva Ivelina, Pavlov Atanas
Laboratory of Applied Biotechnology - Plovdiv The Stephan Angeloff Institute of Microbiology Bulgarian Academy of Sciences Plovdiv Bulgaria.
Department of Organic Chemistry and Inorganic Chemistry University of Food Technologies Plovdiv Bulgaria.
Eng Life Sci. 2018 Jul 15;18(11):779-798. doi: 10.1002/elsc.201800066. eCollection 2018 Nov.
Plants have always been the main source for active cosmetic ingredients, having proven health beneficial effects on human, such as anti-aging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, UV-protective, anti-cancer, anti-wrinkle, skin soothing, whitening, moisturizing, etc. Extracts from herbal, aromatic and/or medicinal plants have been widely used as effective active ingredients in cosmeceuticals or nutricosmetics, especially in products for topical application and skin-care formulations. However, over the past decade, there has been an increasing interest to plant cell culture - derived active cosmetic ingredients. These are "new generation" of high quality natural products, produced by the modern plan biotechnology methods, which usually showed stronger activities than the plant extracts obtained by the classical methods. In this review, the advantages and the current progress in plant cell culture technology for the production of active cosmetic ingredients have been summarized, and discussed in details within a presented case study for calendula stem cell product development.
植物一直是活性化妆品成分的主要来源,已证明对人体具有有益健康的作用,如抗老化、抗氧化、抗炎、防紫外线、抗癌、抗皱、舒缓肌肤、美白、保湿等。草药、芳香植物和/或药用植物的提取物已被广泛用作药妆品或营养化妆品中的有效活性成分,尤其是在局部应用产品和护肤品配方中。然而,在过去十年中,人们对植物细胞培养衍生的活性化妆品成分的兴趣与日俱增。这些是通过现代植物生物技术方法生产的“新一代”高品质天然产品,通常比传统方法获得的植物提取物具有更强的活性。在本综述中,总结了用于生产活性化妆品成分的植物细胞培养技术的优势和当前进展,并在一个关于金盏花干细胞产品开发的案例研究中进行了详细讨论。