Chemical Engineering Department, Manhattan College, Riverdale, NY, USA.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Apr;43(2):123-130. doi: 10.1111/ics.12685. Epub 2021 Jan 15.
Epidermal growth factors are important morphogenetic proteins that instruct cell behaviour. They have many inferred applications within regenerative medicine and have shown promising results in skincare treatments. Many growth factors are known to have skin anti-ageing benefits along with further potential in resolving scarring, acne and other skin disorders. Incorporation of these biologics into skincare formulations has been greatly hindered by low transdermal delivery efficacy, intricate material interactions and protein instability - especially within common cosmetic emulsions. This review explores the cosmeceutical capability of growth factors in skin care, current understandings of constituent interactions and advantageous delivery approaches for more effective topical delivery. The first section highlights the influences growth factor product formulation has on stability and synergy. Current understandings of growth factor formulating techniques in cosmetic products is limited, and the performance of other protein structures is an adequate point of reference. The second section examines emerging drug delivery systems to overcome the challenges of topical growth factor treatment. It is important to consider the coaction and durability of all components in a formulation simultaneously: active ingredients, product format and delivery vehicle, in order to engineer an optimal cosmeceutical product.
表皮生长因子是一种重要的形态发生蛋白,能指导细胞行为。它们在再生医学中有许多推测的应用,并在皮肤护理治疗中显示出有前景的结果。许多生长因子被认为具有皮肤抗衰老的益处,同时在解决疤痕、痤疮和其他皮肤疾病方面也有进一步的潜力。将这些生物制剂纳入皮肤护理配方受到低透皮传递效率、复杂的材料相互作用和蛋白质不稳定性的严重阻碍,尤其是在常见的化妆品乳液中。本综述探讨了生长因子在皮肤护理中的美容功效、对成分相互作用的现有理解以及更有效的局部传递的有利传递方法。第一节重点介绍了生长因子产品配方对稳定性和协同作用的影响。目前对化妆品中生长因子配方技术的理解有限,其他蛋白质结构的性能是一个很好的参考点。第二节研究了新兴的药物传递系统,以克服局部生长因子治疗的挑战。同时考虑配方中所有成分的协同作用和耐久性非常重要:活性成分、产品形式和传递载体,以设计出最佳的美容产品。