Normandie Univ, UNILEHAVRE, INC3M-CNRS-FR 3038, URCOM, EA 3221, 25 rue Philippe Lebon, BP 1123, 76063 Le Havre Cedex, France.
Normandie Univ, UNILEHAVRE, INC3M-CNRS-FR 3038, URCOM, EA 3221, 25 rue Philippe Lebon, BP 1123, 76063 Le Havre Cedex, France.
Colloids Surf B Biointerfaces. 2022 Sep;217:112676. doi: 10.1016/j.colsurfb.2022.112676. Epub 2022 Jun 30.
Nowadays, there is a growing demand for effective cosmetic skincare products that can address the specific skin problems of consumers. Delivery systems play an important role in the effective action of cosmetic skincare formulations. Delivery systems are attractive and smart technologies used as carriers for cosmetic ingredients, which are sensitive to various physical factors such as light, oxygen, pH and temperature. Delivery systems offer several advantages: transport and protection of sensitive active compounds, controlled and targeted release of active ingredients. Several delivery systems, varying in chemical composition, with adaptable physicochemical characteristics (size, morphology, zeta potential, structure) as well as great advantages as carriers, are developed and described in the literature. This article reviews the current cosmetic active ingredients used in skincare products due to their beneficial properties such as antioxidant, anti-aging, photo-protective, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, etc.). In addition, the main advantages of several classes of delivery systems (emulsions, lipid nanoparticles, polymeric particles) are described, as well as some recent approaches used to ensure their efficacy (long-term stability, controlled release of the active, skin penetration/permeation) are reviewed. Finally, new trends to be considered for the development of delivery systems and cosmetic formulations are discussed.
如今，人们对能够解决消费者特定皮肤问题的有效美容护肤品的需求日益增长。输送系统在美容护肤品的有效作用中起着重要作用。输送系统是一种有吸引力和智能化的技术，可用作对光、氧、pH 值和温度等各种物理因素敏感的美容成分的载体。输送系统具有以下几个优点：运输和保护敏感的活性化合物，控制和靶向释放活性成分。文献中开发并描述了几种输送系统，它们在化学成分、适应性物理化学特性（大小、形态、Zeta 电位、结构）以及作为载体的巨大优势方面有所不同。本文综述了目前在护肤品中使用的具有抗氧化、抗衰老、光保护、抗炎、抗菌等有益特性的美容活性成分。此外，还描述了几类输送系统（乳液、脂质纳米粒、聚合物颗粒）的主要优点，以及一些最近用于确保其功效的方法（长期稳定性、活性的控制释放、皮肤渗透/渗透）。最后，讨论了开发输送系统和化妆品配方时需要考虑的新趋势。
