Castangia Ines, Fulgheri Federica, Perra Matteo, Bacchetta Gianluigi, Fancello Laura, Corrias Francesco, Usach Iris, Peris Josè Esteban, Manca Maria Letizia, Manconi Maria
Department of Life and Environmental Sciences, University of Cagliari, University Campus, S.P. Monserrato-Sestu Km 0.700, 09042 Monserrato, Cagliari, Italy.
Biomedical and Tissue Engineering Laboratory, Fundación de Investigación Hospital General Universitario, 46022 Valencia, Spain.
Nanomaterials (Basel). 2023 Sep 4;13(17):2485. doi: 10.3390/nano13172485.
Nasco and Bovale grape pomace extracts, alone or in association, were loaded in nanoemulsions tailored for cosmetic application, using KolliphorRH40 (kolliphor) as the synthetic surfactant, Olivem1000 (olivem) as the natural one, and lecithin as the cosurfactant. Pink transparent or milky dispersions, as a function of the used extract and surfactant, were obtained to be used as cosmeceutical serum or milk. The sizes of the nanoemulsion droplets were small (≈77 nm with kolliphor and ≈141 nm with olivem), homogenously dispersed (~0.24 with kolliphor and ~0.16 with olivem), highly negatively charged (≈-43 mV irrespective of the used surfactant) and their stability either on storage or under stressing conditions was affected by the used extract and surfactant. Formulations protected the extracts from the degradation caused by UV exposition, were biocompatible against keratinocytes, protected them against oxidative damages induced using hydrogen peroxide and inhibited the release of nitrite induced in macrophages using the lipopolysaccharide inflammatory stimulus. The overall results underlined the key role played by the composition of the formula to achieve a suitable cosmeceutical for skin care but even for the prevention of premature aging and chronic damages caused by the stressing conditions.
纳斯科葡萄渣提取物和博瓦莱葡萄渣提取物单独或联合使用，被载入为化妆品应用量身定制的纳米乳剂中，使用聚氧乙烯氢化蓖麻油40（科丽素EL）作为合成表面活性剂，1,2-二硬脂酰基-sn-甘油-3-磷酸胆碱（橄榄乳化蜡）作为天然表面活性剂，卵磷脂作为助表面活性剂。根据所使用的提取物和表面活性剂的不同，得到了粉红色透明或乳白色的分散液，可用作药妆血清或乳液。纳米乳液液滴尺寸较小（使用科丽素EL时约为77纳米，使用橄榄乳化蜡时约为141纳米），均匀分散（使用科丽素EL时约为0.24，使用橄榄乳化蜡时约为0.16），带高度负电荷（无论使用何种表面活性剂，均约为-43毫伏），其在储存或应激条件下的稳定性受所使用的提取物和表面活性剂的影响。配方保护提取物免受紫外线照射引起的降解，对角质形成细胞具有生物相容性，保护它们免受过氧化氢诱导的氧化损伤，并抑制脂多糖炎症刺激在巨噬细胞中诱导的亚硝酸盐释放。总体结果强调了配方组成在实现适合皮肤护理的药妆产品方面所起的关键作用，甚至在预防由应激条件引起的过早衰老和慢性损伤方面也是如此。
