如何应对急性日晒损伤?当前的皮肤护理策略。

How to fight acute sun damage? Current skin care strategies.

机构信息

Faculty of Pharmacy, UCIBIO-Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, University of Porto, 4050-313, Porto, Portugal.

Associate Laboratory i4HB-Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313, Porto, Portugal.

出版信息

Photochem Photobiol Sci. 2024 Oct;23(10):1915-1930. doi: 10.1007/s43630-024-00641-3. Epub 2024 Sep 28.

Abstract

Excessive exposure to sunlight can contribute for skin photo-damage, such as sunburn, dryness, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, immunosuppressive events and skin sensitization reactions. The use of aftersun products is an effective strategy to reduce the visible signs and symptoms of acute photodamage in the skin. Aiming to unveil the active ingredients able to offset acute sun damage, this work focuses on the characterization of the aftersun products market. A total of 84 after-sun formulations from 41 international brands currently marketed in Portugal were analyzed concerning the composition described on the product label, identifying natural and synthetic/semi-synthetic ingredients with the ability to mitigate solar-induced effects. The majority of aftersun formulations contained ingredients derived from terrestrial and marine sources (> 80%). An in-depth examination of these compounds is also offered, revealing the top of the most used natural and synthetic/semi-synthetic ingredients present in aftersun products, as well as their mechanism of action. A critical appraisal of the scientific data was made aiming to highlight the scientific evidence of ingredients able to mitigate skin photodamage. Amino acids and peptides, and A. barbadensis extract were tested for their in vivo efficacy. Nevertheless, all the ingredients were analyzed with in vitro studies as preliminary screening before in vivo, ex vivo and/or clinical studies. In summary, this study provides an overview of the use of active ingredients in commercial aftersun products to understand better the benefits associated with their use in cosmetic formulations and identify opportunities for innovation.

摘要

过度暴露于阳光会导致皮肤光损伤,如晒伤、干燥、皱纹、色素沉着过度、免疫抑制事件和皮肤致敏反应。使用晒后产品是减少皮肤急性光损伤可见迹象和症状的有效策略。为了揭示能够抵消急性太阳损伤的活性成分,本工作重点研究晒后产品市场的特征。对目前在葡萄牙市场上销售的 41 个国际品牌的 84 种晒后配方,根据产品标签上描述的成分,对其进行了分析,确定了具有减轻太阳诱导效应能力的天然和合成/半合成成分。大多数晒后配方都含有来自陆地和海洋来源的成分(>80%)。还对这些化合物进行了深入研究,揭示了晒后产品中最常用的天然和合成/半合成成分的顶端,以及它们的作用机制。对科学数据进行了批判性评估,旨在强调能够减轻皮肤光损伤的成分的科学证据。对氨基酸和肽以及 A. barbadensis 提取物进行了体内功效测试。然而,所有成分都经过了体外研究,作为体内、离体和/或临床研究之前的初步筛选。总之,本研究概述了商业晒后产品中活性成分的使用,以更好地了解其在化妆品配方中的使用益处,并确定创新机会。

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