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决策对室内抱石表现的影响:一种多实验研究方法。

Effects of decision-making on indoor bouldering performances: A multi-experimental study approach.

机构信息

Institute of Exercise Training and Sports Informatics, German Sport University Cologne, Cologne, Germany.

出版信息

PLoS One. 2021 May 13;16(5):e0250701. doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0250701. eCollection 2021.

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to investigate whether novice, intermediate, and advanced bouldering athletes would differ in their decision-making abilities and to what extent distinct problem-solving tactics would affect the athletes' bouldering performances. Seventy-seven male bouldering athletes participated in a multi-experimental study with the conceptual replication of three bouldering tasks. Participants were allocated according to their ability levels to the novice group (NOV with n = 18), the intermediate group (INT with n = 18), or the advanced group (ADV with n = 41). The data collected for movement analysis via video consisted of the pre-ascent decision-making times, the number of movement deviations from the best solution, the number of movement mistakes, the average gripping times, the bouldering times to the top, the number of successful ascents, and the number of attempts to complete the tasks. Results among all three experiments revealed shorter decision-making times, fewer movement mistakes, and shorter average gripping and bouldering times to the top in the ADV group than in the NOV group and the INT group. Furthermore, participants from the ADV group demonstrated fewer movement deviations than participants from the NOV group (in all three experiments) and the INT group (Experiment 1 and Experiment 2). Moreover, participants from the ADV group and the INT group were characterized, in all three experiments, by a higher number of successful ascents and a lower number of attempts to complete the tasks than participants from the NOV group. In total, these findings emphasize that accomplished decision-making abilities consist of a key determinant in successful indoor bouldering performances.

摘要

本研究旨在探讨新手、中级和高级抱石运动员在决策能力上是否存在差异,以及不同的解决问题策略在多大程度上影响运动员的抱石表现。77 名男性抱石运动员参与了一项多实验研究,其中三个抱石任务进行了概念复制。参与者根据他们的能力水平被分配到新手组(NOV,n = 18)、中级组(INT,n = 18)或高级组(ADV,n = 41)。通过视频进行运动分析所收集的数据包括上升前的决策时间、偏离最佳解决方案的动作次数、动作错误次数、平均握力时间、登顶的抱石时间、成功登顶次数和完成任务的尝试次数。所有三个实验的结果均显示,ADV 组的决策时间更短,动作错误更少,平均握力和登顶抱石时间更短,而 NOV 组和 INT 组的动作错误则更多。此外,ADV 组的参与者在所有三个实验中比 NOV 组和 INT 组的参与者的动作偏差更少。此外,ADV 组和 INT 组的参与者在所有三个实验中都表现出更高的成功登顶次数和更低的完成任务尝试次数,而 NOV 组的参与者则较少。总的来说,这些发现强调了出色的决策能力是成功进行室内抱石运动的关键决定因素。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/e438/8118292/f9ef11ab567f/pone.0250701.g001.jpg

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本文引用的文献

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