La Gatta Annalisa, Aschettino Maria, Stellavato Antonietta, D'Agostino Antonella, Vassallo Valentina, Bedini Emiliano, Bellia Gilberto, Schiraldi Chiara
Department of Experimental Medicine, School of Medicine, University of Campania Luigi Vanvitelli, Via L. De Crecchio 7, 80138 Naples, Italy.
Department of Chemical Sciences, University of Naples Federico II, Complesso Universitario Monte S. Angelo, Via Cintia 4, 80126 Naples, Italy.
Int J Mol Sci. 2021 Jun 2;22(11):6005. doi: 10.3390/ijms22116005.
Skinboosters represent the latest category of hyaluronan (HA) hydrogels released for aesthetic purposes. Different from originally developed gels, they are intended for more superficial injections, claiming a skin rejuvenation effect through hydration and possibly prompting biochemical effects in place of the conventional volumetric action. Here, three commercial skinboosters were characterized to unravel the scientific basis for such indication and to compare their performances.
Gels were evaluated for water-soluble/insoluble-HA composition, rheology, hydration, cohesivity, stability and effect, in vitro, on human dermal fibroblasts towards the production of extracellular matrix components.
Marked differences in the insoluble-hydrogel amount and in the hydrodynamic parameters for water-soluble-HA chains were evidenced among the gels. Hydration, rigidity and cohesivity also varied over a wide range. Sensitivity to hyaluronidases and Reactive Oxygen Species was demonstrated allowing a stability ranking. Slight differences were found in gels' ability to prompt elastin expression and in ColIV/ColI ratio.
A wide panel of biophysical and biochemical parameters for skinboosters was provided, supporting clinicians in the conscious tuning of their use. Data revealed great variability in gels' behavior notwithstanding the same clinical indication and unexpected similarities to the volumetric formulations. Data may be useful to improve customization of gel design toward specific uses.
皮肤助推剂是为美容目的而推出的最新一类透明质酸(HA)水凝胶。与最初开发的凝胶不同,它们旨在进行更浅表的注射,声称通过保湿产生皮肤年轻化效果,并可能引发生化效应,以取代传统的填充作用。在此,对三种市售皮肤助推剂进行了表征,以揭示这种适应症的科学依据并比较它们的性能。
对凝胶进行了评估,包括水溶性/不溶性HA组成、流变学、水合作用、内聚力、稳定性以及在体外对人真皮成纤维细胞产生细胞外基质成分的影响。
凝胶之间在不溶性水凝胶量和水溶性HA链的流体动力学参数方面存在显著差异。水合作用、硬度和内聚力也在很大范围内变化。证明了对透明质酸酶和活性氧的敏感性,从而得出稳定性排名。在凝胶促进弹性蛋白表达的能力和IV型胶原/ I型胶原比率方面发现了细微差异。
提供了一系列广泛的皮肤助推剂生物物理和生化参数,有助于临床医生有意识地调整其使用方法。数据显示,尽管临床适应症相同,但凝胶的行为存在很大差异,并且与填充制剂存在意想不到的相似之处。这些数据可能有助于改进凝胶设计以满足特定用途的定制化。