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[未来的防晒霜:挑战与机遇]

[Sunscreens of the future: challenges and opportunities].

作者信息

Wolf Peter, Krutmann Jean

机构信息

Universitätsklinik für Dermatologie und Venerologie, Medizinische Universität Graz, Auenbruggerplatz 8, 8036, Graz, Österreich.

IUF - Leibniz-Institut für umweltmedizinische Forschung GmbH, Auf'm Hennekamp 50, 40225, Düsseldorf, Deutschland.

出版信息

Hautarzt. 2022 Apr;73(4):257-265. doi: 10.1007/s00105-022-04959-w. Epub 2022 Mar 8.

DOI:10.1007/s00105-022-04959-w
PMID:35258659
Abstract

Sunscreens provide excellent protection against erythema and against chronic damage such as photoaging and skin cancer. Today's challenges concern safety of the products and improved methods for standardizing the evaluation of their efficacy. Other important topics are the further development of sunscreen products, as well as personalization of use. Personalized sun protection based on the phenotype, the genetic profiles and moreover the skin's microbiome - all linked to the identification of certain consumer susceptibility factors - is an exciting new area of research. In particular, the expansion with innovative topical agents such as DNA repair liposomes in improved galenic formulations with UV filters tailored to the skin phototype and new topical antioxidants could in future provide even more comprehensive sun protection. New antioxidants and other agents such as nicotinamide could increase systemic photoprevention. Sustainability will also be an important aspect to protect consumers, but also the environment (i.e. especially marine wildlife) from toxic effects of sunscreens.

摘要

防晒霜能有效抵御红斑以及光老化和皮肤癌等慢性损伤。如今面临的挑战涉及产品安全性以及改进其功效评估的标准化方法。其他重要话题包括防晒产品的进一步研发以及个性化使用。基于表型、基因图谱以及皮肤微生物群的个性化防晒——所有这些都与某些消费者易感性因素的识别相关——是一个令人兴奋的新研究领域。特别是,通过在改进的药剂配方中添加创新的局部用药,如DNA修复脂质体,并搭配适合皮肤光型的紫外线滤过剂以及新型局部抗氧化剂,未来可能会提供更全面的防晒保护。新型抗氧化剂和烟酰胺等其他药剂可以增强全身光预防作用。可持续性也是一个重要方面,既能保护消费者,又能保护环境(尤其是海洋野生动物)免受防晒霜的毒性影响。

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本文引用的文献

1
Photoprotection for all: Current gaps and opportunities.全民光防护:当前的差距与机遇
J Am Acad Dermatol. 2022 Mar;86(3S):S18-S26. doi: 10.1016/j.jaad.2021.12.023. Epub 2021 Dec 20.
2
Improving quality of teledermatology visits: The Skin-Know-Implement-Next checklist.提高远程皮肤病诊疗质量:皮肤知识-实施-下一步清单
J Am Acad Dermatol. 2022 Jun;86(6):1450-1451. doi: 10.1016/j.jaad.2021.11.018. Epub 2021 Nov 18.
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Visible light. Part II: Photoprotection against visible and ultraviolet light.可见光线。第二部分:可见光和紫外线防护。
J Am Acad Dermatol. 2021 May;84(5):1233-1244. doi: 10.1016/j.jaad.2020.11.074. Epub 2021 Feb 25.
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Photoprotection beyond ultraviolet radiation: A review of tinted sunscreens.光防护:有色防晒霜综述。
J Am Acad Dermatol. 2021 May;84(5):1393-1397. doi: 10.1016/j.jaad.2020.04.079. Epub 2020 Apr 23.
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Photoprotection of the future: challenges and opportunities.未来的光保护:挑战与机遇。
J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2020 Mar;34(3):447-454. doi: 10.1111/jdv.16030. Epub 2020 Jan 3.
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Six critical questions for DNA repair enzymes in skincare products: a review in dialog.护肤产品中DNA修复酶的六个关键问题:对话式综述
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Vitamin D: one more argument for broad-spectrum ultraviolet A + ultraviolet B sunscreen protection.维生素D:支持使用广谱紫外线A+紫外线B防晒的又一论据。
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Linear and exponential sunscreen behaviours as an explanation for observed discrepancies in sun protection factor testing.线性和指数防晒行为解释了防晒因子测试中观察到的差异。
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Skin Microbiome Modulates the Effect of Ultraviolet Radiation on Cellular Response and Immune Function.皮肤微生物群调节紫外线辐射对细胞反应和免疫功能的影响。
iScience. 2019 May 31;15:211-222. doi: 10.1016/j.isci.2019.04.026. Epub 2019 Apr 26.
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Sunscreen photoprotection and vitamin D status.防晒霜的光保护作用与维生素 D 状况。
Br J Dermatol. 2019 Nov;181(5):916-931. doi: 10.1111/bjd.17992. Epub 2019 Jul 15.