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食物与创伤:记忆与后记忆的人类学

Food and Trauma: Anthropologies of Memory and Postmemory.

机构信息

Transcultural Centre, Stockholm Health Care Services, Region Stockholm, Solnavägen 4, 113 65, Stockholm, Sweden.

Centre for Psychiatry Research, Department of Clinical Neuroscience, Karolinska Institutet & Stockholm Health Care Services, Region Stockholm, 171 77, Stockholm, Sweden.

出版信息

Cult Med Psychiatry. 2023 Jun;47(2):466-494. doi: 10.1007/s11013-022-09785-2. Epub 2022 Apr 4.

Abstract

Much has been written about the multifaceted significance of food and eating from an anthropological perspective; the same can be said about the role of food in collective identity construction and nation building. In contrast, the nexus of food, memory, psychological trauma, and disordered eating has been less explored. The aim of this interdisciplinary article is to synthesize available knowledge on this topic by engaging with research literature in fields such as food history, anthropology, sociology, and psychiatry as well as autobiographical works, cookbooks, etc. One main section of the article focuses on the role of food and cooking in exile and refuge. Another section deals with the role of food in the aftermath of historical trauma, whereas a final section discusses various works on disordered eating in the wake of traumatic experiences. In sum, the dual nature of food and cooking-at once concrete and abstract, material and symbolic-offers an arena in which ambivalent memories of trauma can take on tangible form. The concept of postmemory may be useful in understanding how food and cooking can function both as a vehicle and as a remedy for intergenerational trauma.

摘要

从人类学的角度来看,关于食物和饮食的多方面意义已经有很多论述;同样,食物在集体认同构建和国家建设中的作用也是如此。相比之下,食物、记忆、心理创伤和饮食失调之间的联系却较少被探讨。本文的目的是通过与食品历史、人类学、社会学和精神病学等领域的研究文献以及自传作品、食谱等进行互动,综合现有关于这一主题的知识。文章的一个主要部分侧重于食物和烹饪在流亡和避难中的作用。另一部分涉及食物在历史创伤后的作用,而最后一部分则讨论了创伤后各种关于饮食失调的作品。总之,食物和烹饪的双重性质——既具体又抽象,既物质又象征——为矛盾的创伤记忆提供了一个有形的表达舞台。后记忆的概念可能有助于理解食物和烹饪如何既能作为代际创伤的载体,又能作为代际创伤的补救手段。

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