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包埋阿魏酸在磷酸化大米淀粉中的稳定性和抗衰老作用。

Stability and Anti-Aging of Encapsulated Ferulic Acid in Phosphorylated Rice Starch.

机构信息

School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, 333, Moo.1, Thasud, Muang, Chiang Rai 57100, Thailand.

Cosmetic and Beauty Innovations for Sustainable Development (CBIS) Research Group, Mae Fah Luang University, 333, Moo.1, Thasud, Muang, Chiang Rai 57100, Thailand.

出版信息

Molecules. 2022 May 27;27(11):3463. doi: 10.3390/molecules27113463.

Abstract

Ferulic acid (FA) provides broad biological functions that have been used in cosmetics formulation as a photoprotection, anti-aging, and brightening agent. However, its application is limited by its tendency to deteriorate by exposure to heat, humidity, and light. This study aimed to enhance the stability of FA by encapsulation in phosphorylated rice starch (PRS) and evaluate its effect on improving human skin. First, FA was encapsulated in PRS and characterized by FTIR, SEM, XRD, and DSC. Then, its stability when exposed to a temperature of 45 °C and light and its anti-aging effect on 16 volunteers were investigated. The results indicated that FA was successfully encapsulated in PRS with an encapsulation yield of 77%, EE (73%) and LE (65%). After 1 month at the high temperature/80%RH, the encapsulated FA retained its quantity (70%), whereas free FA was retained at only 50%. Under light exposure conditions, the encapsulated FA was retained at 65%, which was higher than FA (35%). Franz diffusion cell was used and demonstrated that PRS provided the controlled release of FA. Application of encapsulated FA and FA creams showed an absence of skin irritation in all volunteers. After 1 month, the encapsulated FA cream was found to be better than the FA cream on skin lightening, elasticity, smoothness, roughness, scaliness, and wrinkle. The results indicated that PRS is a potential wall material for enhancing the stability of FA, resulting in more efficacious skin lightening and anti-aging properties.

摘要

阿魏酸(FA)具有广泛的生物学功能,已被用于化妆品配方中,作为一种防晒、抗衰老和增亮剂。然而,其应用受到其受热、湿度和光照易降解的限制。本研究旨在通过包封在磷酸化米淀粉(PRS)中来提高 FA 的稳定性,并评估其对改善人体皮肤的效果。首先,将 FA 包封在 PRS 中,并通过 FTIR、SEM、XRD 和 DSC 进行表征。然后,研究了 FA 在 45°C 高温和光照下的稳定性及其对 16 名志愿者的抗衰老作用。结果表明,FA 成功地被 PRS 包封,包封产率为 77%,EE(73%)和 LE(65%)。在高温/80%RH 下放置 1 个月后,包封的 FA 保留了其 70%的含量,而游离 FA 仅保留了 50%。在光照条件下,包封的 FA 保留了 65%,高于 FA(35%)。Franz 扩散池表明 PRS 提供了 FA 的控制释放。包封的 FA 和 FA 霜的应用在所有志愿者中均未引起皮肤刺激。1 个月后,发现包封的 FA 霜在皮肤增亮、弹性、光滑度、粗糙度、鳞屑和皱纹方面优于 FA 霜。结果表明,PRS 是一种潜在的壁材,可以提高 FA 的稳定性,从而具有更有效的皮肤增亮和抗衰老特性。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/06d5/9182070/82d28b851664/molecules-27-03463-g001.jpg

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