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酚类物质作为护肤品中的活性成分：神话还是现实？

Phenolics as Active Ingredients in Skincare Products: A Myth or Reality?

作者信息

Jesus Ana, Ratanji Smeera, Cidade Honorina, Sousa Emília, Cruz Maria T, Oliveira Rita, Almeida Isabel F

机构信息

Associate Laboratory i4HB-Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal.

UCIBIO-Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal.

出版信息

Molecules. 2025 Mar 23;30(7):1423. doi: 10.3390/molecules30071423.

DOI:10.3390/molecules30071423
PMID:40286007
原文链接:https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11990743/
Abstract

Phenolic compounds, with their diverse biological activities, are widely explored as cosmetic ingredients with photoprotective, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-hyperpigmentation properties, offering a multitargeted approach to combat photo-induced skin aging. The study analyzed 1299 cosmetic products from 2021 to 2024 to understand the market impact of phenolic compounds and their mechanism of action against photo-induced skin damage. A total of 28 active phenolic compounds were identified and the prevalence of phenolics was 13.2% in anti-aging products, 5.2% in sunscreens and 4.8% in aftersun products. Bakuchiol and polyphenols, such as resveratrol, chrysin, and hesperidin methyl chalcone, were found in anti-aging products. Sunscreens and aftersun products were counted with ferulic and caffeic acids, and salicylic acid, respectively. Antioxidant activity was found to be the primary mechanism of action of phenolic compounds by scavenging reactive species, thus mitigating oxidative stress. Ferulic and caffeic acids, chrysin, and glucosylrutin can also absorb UV radiation, acting preventively against solar-induced skin damage. This study provides insights into the limited use of phenolic compounds in commercial cosmetics, despite their diverse biological activities, and suggests potential barriers to wider use in skin and sun care products.

摘要

酚类化合物具有多种生物活性，作为具有光保护、抗氧化、抗炎和抗色素沉着特性的化妆品成分被广泛研究，为对抗光诱导的皮肤衰老提供了一种多靶点方法。该研究分析了2021年至2024年的1299种化妆品，以了解酚类化合物的市场影响及其对抗光诱导皮肤损伤的作用机制。共鉴定出28种活性酚类化合物，酚类化合物在抗衰老产品中的占比为13.2%，在防晒霜中为5.2%，在晒后产品中为4.8%。在抗衰老产品中发现了补骨脂酚和多酚，如白藜芦醇、白杨素和橙皮苷甲基查耳酮。防晒霜和晒后产品中分别含有阿魏酸、咖啡酸和水杨酸。通过清除活性物质，减轻氧化应激，抗氧化活性被发现是酚类化合物的主要作用机制。阿魏酸、咖啡酸、白杨素和葡萄糖基芦丁也可以吸收紫外线辐射，预防阳光引起的皮肤损伤。这项研究揭示了尽管酚类化合物具有多种生物活性，但在商业化妆品中的使用有限，并指出了其在皮肤和防晒产品中更广泛应用的潜在障碍。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/f6df/11990743/ce8ae39abc86/molecules-30-01423-g015.jpg
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