Phenolics as Active Ingredients in Skincare Products: A Myth or Reality?

Phenolic compounds, with their diverse biological activities, are widely explored as cosmetic ingredients with photoprotective, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-hyperpigmentation properties, offering a multitargeted approach to combat photo-induced skin aging. The study analyzed 1299 cosmetic products from 2021 to 2024 to understand the market impact of phenolic compounds and their mechanism of action against photo-induced skin damage. A total of 28 active phenolic compounds were identified and the prevalence of phenolics was 13.2% in anti-aging products, 5.2% in sunscreens and 4.8% in aftersun products. Bakuchiol and polyphenols, such as resveratrol, chrysin, and hesperidin methyl chalcone, were found in anti-aging products. Sunscreens and aftersun products were counted with ferulic and caffeic acids, and salicylic acid, respectively. Antioxidant activity was found to be the primary mechanism of action of phenolic compounds by scavenging reactive species, thus mitigating oxidative stress. Ferulic and caffeic acids, chrysin, and glucosylrutin can also absorb UV radiation, acting preventively against solar-induced skin damage. This study provides insights into the limited use of phenolic compounds in commercial cosmetics, despite their diverse biological activities, and suggests potential barriers to wider use in skin and sun care products.