Schiros Theanne N, Antrobus Romare, Farías Delfina, Chiu Yueh-Ting, Joseph Christian Tay, Esdaille Shanece, Sanchirico Gwen Karen, Miquelon Grace, An Dong, Russell Sebastian T, Chitu Adrian M, Goetz Susanne, Verploegh Chassé Anne Marika, Nuckolls Colin, Kumar Sanat K, Lu Helen H
Department of Science and Mathematics, Fashion Institute of Technology New York NY 10001 USA
Materials Research Science and Engineering Center, Columbia University New York NY 10027 USA
Env Sci Adv. 2022 May 27;1(3):276-284. doi: 10.1039/d2va00050d. eCollection 2022 Jul 29.
The synthesis and bottom-up assembly of nanocellulose by microbes offers unique advantages to tune and meet key design criteria-rapid renewability, low toxicity, scalability, performance, and degradability-for multi-functional, circular economy textiles. However, development of green processing methods that meet these criteria remains a major research challenge. Here, we harness microbial biofabrication of nanocellulose and draw inspiration from ancient textile techniques to engineer sustainable biotextiles with a circular life cycle. The unique molecular self-organization of microbial nanocellulose (MC) combined with bio-phosphorylation with a lecithin treatment yields a compostable material with superior mechanical and flame-retardant properties. Specifically, treatment of MC with a lecithin-phosphocholine emulsion makes sites available to modulate cellulose cross-linking through hydroxyl, phosphate and methylene groups, increasing the interaction between cellulose chains. The resultant bioleather exhibits enhanced tensile strength and high ductility. Bio-phosphorylation with lecithin also redirects the combustion pathway from levoglucosan production towards the formation of foaming char as an insulating oxygen barrier, for outstanding flame retardance. Controlled color modulation is demonstrated with natural dyes. Life cycle impact assessment reveals that MC bioleather has up to an order of magnitude lower carbon footprint than conventional textiles, and a thousandfold reduction in the carcinogenic impact of leather production. Eliminating the use of hazardous substances, these high performance materials disrupt linear production models and strategically eliminate its toxicity and negative climate impacts, with widespread application in fashion, interiors and construction. Importantly, the biotextile approach developed in this study demonstrates the potential of biofabrication coupled with green chemistry for a circular materials economy.
微生物合成和自下而上组装纳米纤维素为调整和满足多功能循环经济纺织品的关键设计标准（快速可再生性、低毒性、可扩展性、性能和可降解性）提供了独特优势。然而，开发符合这些标准的绿色加工方法仍然是一项重大研究挑战。在此，我们利用纳米纤维素的微生物生物制造技术，并从古代纺织技术中汲取灵感，设计出具有循环生命周期的可持续生物纺织品。微生物纳米纤维素（MC）独特的分子自组装与卵磷脂处理的生物磷酸化相结合，产生了一种具有优异机械性能和阻燃性能的可堆肥材料。具体而言，用卵磷脂 - 磷酸胆碱乳液处理MC可使位点通过羟基、磷酸基和亚甲基调节纤维素交联，增加纤维素链之间的相互作用。所得的生物皮革表现出增强的拉伸强度和高延展性。卵磷脂的生物磷酸化还将燃烧途径从左旋葡聚糖的产生转向形成作为绝缘氧屏障的发泡炭，从而具有出色的阻燃性。用天然染料实现了可控的颜色调制。生命周期影响评估表明，MC生物皮革的碳足迹比传统纺织品低一个数量级，皮革生产的致癌影响降低了一千倍。这些高性能材料消除了有害物质的使用，打破了线性生产模式，并从战略上消除了其毒性和负面气候影响，在时尚、室内装饰和建筑领域有广泛应用。重要的是，本研究中开发的生物纺织方法展示了生物制造与绿色化学相结合实现循环材料经济的潜力。
