Development of Spray Dried Protein-Berry Pomace Polyphenol Particles to Attenuate Pollution-Induced Skin Damage: A Convergent Food-Beauty Approach.

Spray drying (SD) microencapsulation of phytochemicals from berry pomaces with protein (SP) was incorporated into a cosmeceutical topical formulation to mitigate pollution skin damage. Initially, microparticles produced with SP and polyphenols recovered from fruit pomaces (elderberry SP-EB and muscadine grape SP-MG) were characterized regarding physicochemical and phytochemical content (polyphenol load, carotenoid and phycocyanin contents and antioxidant activity). SP had low total phenolic content (7.43 ± 0.23 mg GAE/g DW), but complexation with elderberry or muscadine grape pomaces polyphenols led to a substantial increase (27.63 ± 1.15 SP-EB and 111.0 ± 2.6 mg GAE/g DW SP-MG). SP-MG particles had higher anthocyanin (26.87 ± 1.25 mg/g) and proanthocyanidin (9.02 ± 0.74 mg/g) contents compared to SP-EB particles. SP-MG were prioritized to prepare a topical gel to attenuate skin oxinflammatory markers and prevent skin barrier disruption using ex vivo human biopsies exposed to diesel engine exhaust (DEE). The immunofluorescence results showed increased oxidative protein damage and inflammation associated with impaired skin barrier function after DEE exposure while topical application of gel formulated with SP-MG mitigated these effects. Overall, this study demonstrated that protein-polyphenol complexation is a synergistic strategy to stabilize and deliver residual fruit/algae phytoactives into cosmeceutical products for skin health applications.