Hoskin Roberta Targino, Grace Mary H, Guiotto Anna, Pecorelli Alessandra, Valacchi Giuseppe, Lila Mary Ann
Plants for Human Health Institute, Food, Bioprocessing & Nutrition Sciences, North Carolina State University, North Carolina Research Campus, Kannapolis, NC 28081, USA.
Plants for Human Health Institute, Animal Science Department, North Carolina State University, North Carolina Research Campus, Kannapolis, NC 28081, USA.
Antioxidants (Basel). 2023 Jul 15;12(7):1431. doi: 10.3390/antiox12071431.
Spray drying (SD) microencapsulation of phytochemicals from berry pomaces with protein (SP) was incorporated into a cosmeceutical topical formulation to mitigate pollution skin damage. Initially, microparticles produced with SP and polyphenols recovered from fruit pomaces (elderberry SP-EB and muscadine grape SP-MG) were characterized regarding physicochemical and phytochemical content (polyphenol load, carotenoid and phycocyanin contents and antioxidant activity). SP had low total phenolic content (7.43 ± 0.23 mg GAE/g DW), but complexation with elderberry or muscadine grape pomaces polyphenols led to a substantial increase (27.63 ± 1.15 SP-EB and 111.0 ± 2.6 mg GAE/g DW SP-MG). SP-MG particles had higher anthocyanin (26.87 ± 1.25 mg/g) and proanthocyanidin (9.02 ± 0.74 mg/g) contents compared to SP-EB particles. SP-MG were prioritized to prepare a topical gel to attenuate skin oxinflammatory markers and prevent skin barrier disruption using ex vivo human biopsies exposed to diesel engine exhaust (DEE). The immunofluorescence results showed increased oxidative protein damage and inflammation associated with impaired skin barrier function after DEE exposure while topical application of gel formulated with SP-MG mitigated these effects. Overall, this study demonstrated that protein-polyphenol complexation is a synergistic strategy to stabilize and deliver residual fruit/algae phytoactives into cosmeceutical products for skin health applications.
将从浆果渣中提取的植物化学物质与蛋白质进行喷雾干燥（SD）微囊化（SP），并将其纳入药妆外用配方中，以减轻污染对皮肤的损伤。最初，对用SP和从果渣中回收的多酚制备的微粒（接骨木果SP-EB和麝香葡萄SP-MG）的物理化学和植物化学含量（多酚含量、类胡萝卜素和藻蓝蛋白含量以及抗氧化活性）进行了表征。SP的总酚含量较低（7.43±0.23毫克没食子酸当量/克干重），但与接骨木果或麝香葡萄果渣多酚络合后导致大幅增加（27.63±1.15 SP-EB和111.0±2.6毫克没食子酸当量/克干重SP-MG）。与SP-EB颗粒相比，SP-MG颗粒的花青素（26.87±1.25毫克/克）和原花青素（9.02±0.74毫克/克）含量更高。优先选用SP-MG制备外用凝胶，以减轻皮肤氧化炎症标志物，并使用暴露于柴油机尾气（DEE）的离体人体活检组织预防皮肤屏障破坏。免疫荧光结果显示，暴露于DEE后，氧化蛋白质损伤增加，炎症与皮肤屏障功能受损相关，而局部应用含SP-MG的凝胶可减轻这些影响。总体而言，本研究表明，蛋白质-多酚络合是一种协同策略，可将残留的水果/藻类植物活性成分稳定并递送至用于皮肤健康应用的药妆产品中。
