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防晒霜的新发展。

New developments in sunscreens.

机构信息

Photobiological Dermatology Laboratory, Medical Research Center, Department of Dermatology and Medicine, Faculty of Medicine, University of Malaga, Malaga, Spain.

Department of Dermatology, Miguel Servet University Hospital, IIS Aragón, Zaragossa, Spain.

出版信息

Photochem Photobiol Sci. 2023 Oct;22(10):2473-2482. doi: 10.1007/s43630-023-00453-x. Epub 2023 Aug 5.

Abstract

Topical sunscreen application is one of the most important photoprotection tool to prevent sun damaging effects in human skin at the short and long term. Although its efficacy and cosmeticity have significantly improved in recent years, a better understanding of the biological and clinical effects of longer wavelength radiation, such as long ultraviolet A (UVA I) and blue light, has driven scientists and companies to search for effective and safe filters and substances to protect against these newly identified forms of radiation. New technologies have sought to imbue sunscreen with novel properties, such as the reduction of calorific radiation. Cutaneous penetration by sunscreens can also be reduced using hydrogels or nanocrystals that envelop the filters, or by binding filters to nanocarriers such as alginate microparticles, cyclodextrins, and methacrylate polymers. Finally, researchers have looked to nature as a source of healthier products, such as plant products (e.g., mycosporines, scytonemin, and various flavonoids) and even fungal and bacterial melanin, which could potentially be used as substitutes or enhancers of current filters.

摘要

局部使用防晒霜是预防人类皮肤短期和长期日晒损伤的最重要的光保护工具之一。尽管近年来其功效和美容性有了显著提高,但对长波长辐射(如长紫外线 A (UVA I) 和蓝光)的生物学和临床效应有了更深入的了解,促使科学家和公司寻找有效和安全的滤光剂和物质来防护这些新识别的辐射形式。新技术试图为防晒霜赋予新的特性,如减少热量辐射。还可以使用水凝胶或纳米晶体来减少防晒霜的经皮渗透,这些水凝胶或纳米晶体包裹着滤光剂,或者通过将滤光剂结合到纳米载体(如藻酸盐微粒、环糊精和甲基丙烯酸聚合物)上来减少经皮渗透。最后,研究人员将目光投向大自然,寻找更健康的产品,如植物产品(如菌多酚、Scytonemin 和各种类黄酮),甚至真菌和细菌黑色素,这些产品可能被用作当前滤光剂的替代品或增强剂。

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