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康普茶作为化妆品中一种潜在的活性成分——一项体外皮肤渗透研究。

Kombucha as a Potential Active Ingredient in Cosmetics-An Ex Vivo Skin Permeation Study.

作者信息

Jakubczyk Karolina, Nowak Anna, Muzykiewicz-Szymańska Anna, Kucharski Łukasz, Szymczykowska Kinga, Janda-Milczarek Katarzyna

机构信息

Department of Human Nutrition and Metabolomics, Pomeranian Medical University in Szczecin, 24 Broniewskiego Street, 71-460 Szczecin, Poland.

Chair and Department of Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Pomeranian Medical University in Szczecin, Powstańców Wielkopolskich Ave. 72, 70-111 Szczecin, Poland.

出版信息

Molecules. 2024 Feb 26;29(5):1018. doi: 10.3390/molecules29051018.

Abstract

Kombucha is a non-alcoholic beverage, that is increasingly used in the cosmetic industry. The available literature reports the positive effects of kombucha on the skin, in particular its antioxidant action. However, there is a lack of information on skin permeation and the accumulation of active ingredients showing such effects. Skin aging is largely dependent on oxidative stress, therefore in our study we assessed the ex vivo permeation of two types of kombucha (green and black tea) through porcine skin. The antioxidant activity (DPPH, ABTS, FRAP methods) and total polyphenol content of these extracts were determined before and after permeation testing. Moreover, the content of selected phenolic acids as well as caffeine was assessed. Skin permeation was determined using a Franz diffusion cell. The antioxidant activity of both Kombuchas was found to be high. In addition, gallic acid, chlorogenic acid, protocatechuic acid, coumaric acid, m-hydroxybenzoic acid, and caffeine were identified. A 24-h ex vivo study showed the permeation of some phenolic acids and caffeine and their accumulation in the skin. Our results confirm the importance of studying the skin permeation of what are still little known ingredients in cosmetic preparations. Evaluation of the accumulation of these ingredients can guarantee the efficacy of such preparations.

摘要

康普茶是一种非酒精饮料,在化妆品行业中的应用越来越广泛。现有文献报道了康普茶对皮肤的积极作用,尤其是其抗氧化作用。然而,关于具有此类作用的活性成分的皮肤渗透和积累情况,目前还缺乏相关信息。皮肤老化在很大程度上取决于氧化应激,因此在我们的研究中,我们评估了两种类型的康普茶(绿茶和红茶)通过猪皮的离体渗透情况。在渗透测试前后,测定了这些提取物的抗氧化活性(DPPH、ABTS、FRAP法)和总多酚含量。此外,还评估了所选酚酸以及咖啡因的含量。使用Franz扩散池测定皮肤渗透情况。发现两种康普茶的抗氧化活性都很高。此外,还鉴定出了没食子酸、绿原酸、原儿茶酸、香豆酸、间羟基苯甲酸和咖啡因。一项为期24小时的离体研究表明,一些酚酸和咖啡因能够渗透并在皮肤中积累。我们的结果证实了研究化妆品制剂中仍鲜为人知的成分的皮肤渗透情况的重要性。对这些成分积累情况的评估可以确保此类制剂的功效。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/51a2/10935181/2bb35a94642c/molecules-29-01018-g001.jpg

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