Laboratory of Cosmetic & Pharmaceutical Technology, Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Federal University of Santa Catarina, Florianópolis 88040-900, SC, Brazil.
Laboratory of Cosmetic & Pharmaceutical Technology, Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Federal University of Santa Catarina, Florianópolis 88040-900, SC, Brazil.
Int J Biol Macromol. 2024 May;268(Pt 2):131880. doi: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2024.131880. Epub 2024 Apr 25.
Injectable hyaluronic acid (HA) hydrogels have been popularized in facial aesthetics as they provide a long-lasting effect, low risk of complications, allergenicity tests are not required before application and can be easily removed by the action of hyaluronidases. On the other hand, the development of these systems requires in-depth studies of chemical mechanisms involved in hydrogel formation. Ideal dermal fillers should temporarily fluidize during extrusion through the needle and quickly recover their original shape after application. Hydrogels with more elastic properties, for example, are difficult to inject while viscous materials are too liquid. A balance between both properties should be achieved. Each region of the face requires products with distinct rheological properties. High G' dermal fillers are preferable for deeper wrinkles whereas the counterpart with lower values of G' is more indicated in superficial wrinkles or lip augmentation. Factors such as molecular weight and concentration of HA, pH, type and concentration of the crosslinking agent, particle size, crosslinking reaction time and crosslinking agent/polysaccharide ratio should be modulated to achieve specific rheological properties. In this review, the effect of each variable is discussed in detail to guide the rational development of new dermal fillers.
注射用透明质酸(HA)水凝胶在面部美容中很受欢迎,因为它们具有持久的效果、并发症风险低、应用前不需要进行过敏试验,并且可以通过透明质酸酶的作用轻松去除。另一方面,这些系统的开发需要深入研究水凝胶形成中涉及的化学机制。理想的真皮填充剂在通过针头挤出时应暂时流动,并在应用后迅速恢复其原始形状。例如,具有更高弹性的水凝胶更难注射,而粘性材料则过于液体化。应该在两者之间取得平衡。面部的每个区域都需要具有不同流变特性的产品。高 G' 的真皮填充剂更适合用于较深的皱纹,而 G' 值较低的产品则更适用于较浅的皱纹或唇部填充。HA 的分子量和浓度、pH 值、交联剂的类型和浓度、粒径、交联反应时间以及交联剂/多糖比等因素应进行调节,以获得特定的流变特性。在这篇综述中,详细讨论了每个变量的影响,以指导新型真皮填充剂的合理开发。