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通过红茶菌介导的发酵提高芦荟凝胶的美容潜力:植物化学分析以及抗氧化、抗老化和保湿性能评估

Enhancing the Cosmetic Potential of Aloe Vera Gel by Kombucha-Mediated Fermentation: Phytochemical Analysis and Evaluation of Antioxidant, Anti-Aging and Moisturizing Properties.

作者信息

Ziemlewska Aleksandra, Zagórska-Dziok Martyna, Nowak Anna, Muzykiewicz-Szymańska Anna, Wójciak Magdalena, Sowa Ireneusz, Szczepanek Dariusz, Nizioł-Łukaszewska Zofia

机构信息

Department of Technology of Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Products, Medical College, University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszow, Sucharskiego 2, 35-225 Rzeszow, Poland.

Department of Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Pomeranian Medical University in Szczecin, 72 Powstańców Wielkopolskich Street, 70-111 Szczecin, Poland.

出版信息

Molecules. 2025 Jul 30;30(15):3192. doi: 10.3390/molecules30153192.

Abstract

Aloe vera gel is a valuable raw material used in the cosmetic industry for its skin care properties. The present study analyzed the effects of the fermentation of aloe vera gel with a tea fungus kombucha, which is a symbiotic consortium of bacteria and yeast, carried out for 10 and 20 days (samples F10 and F20, respectively). The resulting ferments and unfermented gel were subjected to chromatographic analysis to determine the content of biologically active compounds. The permeability and accumulation of these compounds in pig skin were evaluated. In addition, the methods of DPPH, ABTS and the determination of intracellular free radical levels in keratinocytes (HaCaT) and fibroblasts (HDF) cell lines were used to determine antioxidant potential. The results showed a higher content of phenolic acids and flavonoids and better antioxidant properties of the ferments, especially after 20 days of fermentation. Cytotoxicity tests against HaCaT and HDF cells confirmed the absence of toxic effects; moreover, samples at the concentrations tested (mainly 10 and 25 mg/mL) showed cytoprotective effects. The analysis of enzymatic activity (collagenase, elastase and hyaluronidase) by the ELISA technique showed higher levels of inhibition for F10 and F20. The kombucha ferments also exhibited better moisturizing properties and lower levels of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), confirming their cosmetic potential.

摘要

芦荟凝胶因其护肤特性而成为化妆品行业中一种有价值的原材料。本研究分析了芦荟凝胶与茶菌康普茶(一种细菌和酵母的共生菌群)发酵10天和20天(分别为样品F10和F20)的效果。对所得发酵产物和未发酵的凝胶进行色谱分析,以确定生物活性化合物的含量。评估了这些化合物在猪皮中的渗透性和蓄积情况。此外,采用DPPH、ABTS方法以及测定角质形成细胞(HaCaT)和成纤维细胞(HDF)细胞系中的细胞内自由基水平来确定抗氧化潜力。结果表明,发酵产物中酚酸和黄酮类化合物含量更高,抗氧化性能更好,尤其是在发酵20天后。对HaCaT和HDF细胞的细胞毒性试验证实没有毒性作用;此外,测试浓度(主要为10和25 mg/mL)的样品显示出细胞保护作用。通过ELISA技术对酶活性(胶原酶、弹性蛋白酶和透明质酸酶)的分析表明,F10和F20的抑制水平更高。康普茶发酵产物还表现出更好的保湿性能和更低的经表皮水分流失(TEWL),证实了它们在化妆品方面的潜力。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/5035/12348975/2163b71dc878/molecules-30-03192-g001.jpg

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