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业余高水平到精英级女性攀岩运动员的人体测量学和表现特征。

Anthropometry and performance characteristics of recreational advanced to elite female rock climbers.

机构信息

Health and Social Care Research Centre, Health and Social Care, University of Derby , Derby, UK.

Research and Development, Lattice Training Ltd , Chesterfield, UK.

出版信息

J Sports Sci. 2021 Jan;39(1):48-56. doi: 10.1080/02640414.2020.1804784. Epub 2020 Aug 18.

Abstract

Despite climbing's popularity and an increasing number of female participants, there are limited anthropometric and performance data for this population. This study compares the characteristics of 55 experienced female climbers, divided into three categories (lower [ADV-L] and higher advanced [ADV-H] and elite [ELT]) based on self-reported ability. Data on climbing experience, body dimensions, body composition, flexibility, lower and upper-body power and finger strength were assessed. ELT climbers differed significantly from the ADV groups in age (Mean Difference [MD] = 8.8-9.8 yrs; despite smaller differences in years climbing MD = 1.6-2.4 yrs), greater climbing and hours training per week (MD = 3.0-3.7 h & MD = 0.9-1.6 h, respectively), and greater upper-body power (MD = 12.9-16.6 cm) and finger strength (MD = 51.6-65.4 N). Linear regression analysis showed finger strength and upper body power to be associated with ability, particularly when adjusting for descriptive and anthropometric variables (finger strength R = 53% and 45%; upper-body power R = 60% and 39% for boulder and sport, respectively). The findings support the importance of finger strength and upper-body power; changes in female anthropometric data over the last decade provide insight into the changing nature of the sport.

摘要

尽管攀岩运动越来越受欢迎,参与人数也在不断增加,但针对该人群的人体测量学和表现数据却有限。本研究比较了 55 名经验丰富的女性攀岩者的特征,这些女性攀岩者根据自我报告的能力分为三个类别(低级别 [ADV-L]、高级别 [ADV-H] 和精英级别 [ELT])。评估了攀岩经验、身体尺寸、身体成分、柔韧性、上下肢力量和手指力量的数据。ELT 攀岩者在年龄(平均差异 [MD] = 8.8-9.8 岁;尽管攀爬年限的差异较小,MD = 1.6-2.4 年)、每周攀爬和训练时间(MD = 3.0-3.7 小时和 MD = 0.9-1.6 小时)以及上半身力量(MD = 12.9-16.6 厘米)和手指力量(MD = 51.6-65.4 N)方面与 ADV 组有显著差异。线性回归分析表明,手指力量和上半身力量与能力相关,尤其是在调整描述性和人体测量学变量后(指力与抱石和运动相关度分别为 53%和 45%;上半身力量与抱石和运动相关度分别为 60%和 39%)。研究结果支持手指力量和上半身力量的重要性;过去十年女性人体测量数据的变化为该运动的变化性质提供了深入了解。

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