Development of mild extraction methods for the analysis of natural dyes in textiles of historical interest using LC-diode array detector-MS.

Analysis of dyes extracted from textiles of historical interest can give valuable information as to where, when, and how the textiles were made. The most widely used method for extraction of colorants involves heating with HCl, which frequently decomposes glycosidic dye components to their parent aglycons, with consequent loss of information about the source of the dye. This is particularly true for flavonoid dyes, many of which are glycosides. We have developed or improved upon two mild textile extraction methods that use ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and formic acid and are efficient in extracting dyes, but preserve glycosidic linkages. The relative efficiencies of the HCl, EDTA, and formic acid extraction methods are compared by analyzing extracts of dyed samples of silk using HPLC coupled with diode array and mass spectrometric detection. HPLC profiles of EDTA or formic acid extracts of silk dyed, for example, with pagoda tree buds and onionskins are clearly distinguishable as to the plant material used, whereas profiles of HCl extracts are not. Thus, extraction of textiles with EDTA or formic acid reagents can yield significantly more information about the original dyestuff than can extraction with a strong acid.