LAQV-REQUIMTE and Department of Conservation and Restoration, NOVA School of Sciences and Technology of NOVA University Lisbon, 2829-516 Monte da Caparica, Portugal.
IEM, Campus de Campolide, NOVA University Lisbon, 1070-312 Lisboa, Portugal.
Molecules. 2020 Feb 18;25(4):908. doi: 10.3390/molecules25040908.
This work provides new knowledge on natural yellows used in Iran. Seven biological sources were selected based on interviews with dye masters in Isfahan workshops (Iran). , , , , , , and are currently used in these workshops. Aiming to study the dye composition of wool samples dyed with the extracts of the selected biological sources and the changes induced by the dyeing procedures in the original chemical composition of the plant extract, raw materials and dyed wool (by us and in the workshops) were analyzed by HPLC-DAD and UHPLC-HRMS/MS. The main yellows for are luteolin--glycosides. In the other plant sources, the main chromophores are based on 3--glycosides of kaempferol, quercetin, and isorhamnetin. In pistachio hulls, myricitin derivatives were detected and we propose their use as markers. Generally, the solutions extracted from the wool displayed a higher amount of more polar compounds, but also a higher amount of aglycones. Importantly, the chromatographic profiles of the samples we prepared compared well with 17th c. yellows in Persian carpets, and therefore can be considered highly characterized references for the study of Persian yellows.
这项工作提供了伊朗天然黄色素的新知识。根据伊斯法罕车间（伊朗）染料大师的访谈，选择了七个生物来源。 、 、 、 、 、 目前在这些车间使用。为了研究用所选生物来源的提取物染色的羊毛样品的染料成分以及染色过程对植物提取物原始化学成分的影响，对原材料和染色羊毛（由我们和车间染色）进行了 HPLC-DAD 和 UHPLC-HRMS/MS 分析。 的主要黄色素是木犀草素-糖苷。在其他植物来源中，主要发色团基于山奈酚、槲皮素和异鼠李素的 3--糖苷。在开心果壳中，检测到杨梅素衍生物，我们提议将其用作标记物。一般来说，从羊毛中提取的溶液含有更多的极性化合物，但也含有更多的苷元。重要的是，我们制备的样品的色谱图与 17 世纪波斯地毯中的黄色素非常吻合，因此可以被认为是研究波斯黄色素的高度特征参考。
